Thing to do
Naschmarkt
Vienna's best-known food market, a long strip of around 130 stands and small restaurants along the Wienzeile, with a flea market every Saturday morning.
Mayer am Pfarrplatz
A traditional Heuriger in Heiligenstadt serving its own wines and a Viennese buffet in the house where Beethoven lived in 1817 while working on his Ninth Symphony.
At a glance
- Type
- Heuriger wine tavern
- Area
- Heiligenstadt, Vienna, Austria
- Price
- $$ · Mid-range
- Official site
- pfarrplatz.at
Good to know
- Garden seating
- Hot and cold buffet
- Live music in the evenings
- Own wines
Why we recommend it
No visit to Vienna is complete without an evening at a Heuriger, the wine taverns run by local winemakers in the villages on the city's northern edge. Mayer am Pfarrplatz is one of the best known. It occupies an old vintner's house on a quiet square in Heiligenstadt, next to the parish church, and it pours wines from its own estates on the slopes around the city.
The house has a strong Beethoven connection. The composer lived here in 1817 and worked on his Ninth Symphony during his stay, and a small room upstairs reached from the terrace still commemorates him. Heiligenstadt was where he came for country air, and in 1802 he wrote the Heiligenstadt Testament nearby, the letter in which he described his despair at losing his hearing. The Beethoven Museum, in another of his former lodgings, is only a few minutes' walk away.
A Heuriger works differently from a restaurant. You choose your food from a long buffet counter of hot and cold dishes, then sit in the panelled rooms or in the garden and order wine by the glass or jug. The house describes its buffet as homemade seasonal specialities, and typical Heuriger fare includes roast meats, cold cuts, cheeses, spreads such as Liptauer, pickled vegetables and salads. The wines are mainly Viennese whites such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and Gemischter Satz, the field blend traditional in Vienna's vineyards. In the evenings, Heurigen musicians play traditional Viennese songs.
The atmosphere is relaxed and suits groups of friends, families and visitors who want a taste of local tradition. The garden is the place to be on warm evenings, but it can get cool in autumn, so bring a layer. The Heuriger opens from 16:00 Monday to Thursday and from noon on Fridays, weekends and public holidays, and live music begins at around 19:00 each evening. Reserve a table for larger groups or at weekends.
Pfarrplatz is in the 19th district, about 15 to 20 minutes' walk from Heiligenstadt station, the terminus of the U4. Buses and the tram D to Nussdorf run nearby, which makes it easy to combine with a walk in the vineyards or a trip up the Kahlenberg beforehand.
Mayer am Pfarrplatz FAQs
What is a Heuriger?
A Viennese wine tavern run by a local winemaker, serving its own wine with a buffet of hot and cold food.
When is Mayer am Pfarrplatz open?
From 16:00 Monday to Thursday and from 12:00 on Fridays, weekends and public holidays.
Is there live music?
Yes, traditional Heurigen music is played daily from around 19:00.
What is the Beethoven connection?
Beethoven lived in the house in 1817 while working on his Ninth Symphony, and a room upstairs commemorates him.
How do I order food?
Choose from the hot and cold buffet counter, then order wine at your table.
Do I need to book?
Booking is advisable for groups and at weekends.
How do I get there?
Take the U4 to Heiligenstadt and walk around 15 to 20 minutes, or use the local buses and tram D towards Nussdorf.
What should I drink?
The estate's own Viennese white wines, such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling or a Gemischter Satz field blend.