Leopold Cafe

Leopold Cafe has stood on Colaba Causeway, opposite Colaba Police Station, since 1871. It was founded by Irani Zoroastrians and named after King Leopold of the Belgians, and over its long history it has been a wholesale cooking oil store, a shop and a pharmacy before becoming the cafe and bar it is today. It is now run by Farzad and Deenyar Jehani and is one of the few Irani establishments of its era that is still thriving.

For decades Leopold has been a meeting point for travellers in Colaba, and its fame grew further when it featured prominently in Gregory David Roberts' novel Shantaram and its sequel, The Mountain Shadow. On 26 November 2008 it was one of the places targeted in the terrorist attacks on Mumbai: gunmen opened fire inside, killing 11 people and injuring 28. The cafe reopened within days, and some of the damage has been kept as a memorial. Readers of Shantaram helped bring customers back, and for many Mumbaikars visiting became an act of defiance.

Today it is a busy, informal place with a long multi-cuisine menu and a full bar, open from morning until late at night. It works for a cold beer after a day of sightseeing, a casual meal or simply a chance to sit and watch the life of the Causeway go by. Do not expect fine dining; the appeal lies in the history, the atmosphere and the mix of people at the tables.

Leopold suits travellers, groups of friends and anyone curious about the history of Colaba. It is lively and can be loud in the evenings, so come earlier in the day if you want a calmer visit. Treat the memorial with respect, and keep an eye on your belongings in the crowd.

Leopold is in the heart of Colaba, a short walk from the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace hotel, and the shops and stalls of Colaba Causeway are right outside. Kala Ghoda and its galleries are a little further north, and Bentley's Hotel and Abode Bombay are both within walking distance if you are staying in the area. Taxis are easy to find along the Causeway.