Khan el-Khalili

Khan el-Khalili takes its name from a caravanserai built in the 1380s by Jaharkas al-Khalili, master of the stables to the Mamluk sultan Barquq. Over the centuries the whole surrounding district became a commercial quarter, and today the name covers a dense web of lanes between Al-Muizz Street and the Mosque of al-Hussein. Some of its gates and trading halls survive from the early 16th century, including the stone gates built under Sultan al-Ghuri.

Most shops near the main lanes sell souvenirs: brass lamps, glass lanterns, papyrus, inlaid boxes, scarves, perfume bottles and alabaster. Walk a little deeper and the bazaar becomes more local, with the goldsmiths' souq, spice and incense sellers, fabric merchants and small workshops where craftsmen still hammer copper or cut glass. Look up as you go, because medieval doorways and carved stone details appear between the shopfronts, particularly around Bab al-Badistan and Bab al-Ghuri.

The bazaar suits shoppers, photographers and anyone who enjoys wandering without a plan. It is lively from late morning until late at night and at its most atmospheric after dark, when the lanterns are lit and families come out, especially during Ramadan. Many shops are closed or quiet on Friday mornings. Allow at least two hours, and keep a map app handy, as the lanes are easy to get lost in.

Bargaining is expected in most shops. Decide what you are willing to pay, start lower and be prepared to walk away politely; a friendly tone works better than hard haggling. Shopkeepers can be persistent, and a firm but good-humoured no thank you is usually enough. Keep valuables secure in the crowds, and carry small notes in Egyptian pounds, as many traders do not take cards.

The bazaar sits opposite Al-Azhar Mosque across Al-Azhar Street, connected by a pedestrian underpass. Taxis drop visitors outside, as the lanes are car-free. Rest your feet at El Fishawy, the coffeehouse that has served tea here since the 18th century, or at the Naguib Mahfouz Café. Al-Muizz Street runs along the western edge of the bazaar, so it is easy to continue into the monuments of the Fatimid city. If you plan serious shopping, it helps to browse on one visit and buy on another, once you have a feel for quality and prices.