Attraction
Pyramids of Giza
The Great Pyramid of Khufu, the pyramids of Khafre and Menkaure and the Great Sphinx, the last surviving wonder of the ancient world on the edge…
Completed in 879, this vast mosque with a spiral minaret and an open courtyard is one of the oldest and calmest monuments in Cairo.
Good to know
The Mosque of Ibn Tulun was built between 876 and 879 for Ahmad ibn Tulun, the governor who made Egypt effectively independent of the Abbasid caliphs. It is the oldest mosque in Cairo to survive in something close to its original form, and its plain, monumental design is very different from the ornate Mamluk buildings elsewhere in the city. The whole complex, including its outer enclosure, covers more than 26,000 square metres.
The heart of the building is a huge open courtyard framed by arcades of pointed arches resting on brick piers, decorated with carved stucco. In the centre stands a domed fountain added during a restoration under Sultan Lajin in 1296. The most memorable feature is the minaret, with an external staircase that winds around a square base and a cylindrical upper section. Climbing it is usually possible and gives wide views over the domes and rooftops of the old city.
The mosque is often quiet, which makes it one of the best places in Cairo to appreciate early Islamic architecture without crowds. It suits photographers and anyone who likes space and simplicity. Allow 45 minutes to an hour, longer if you climb the minaret. Dress modestly, remove your shoes where asked, and take care on the minaret steps, which have no handrail in places.
The Gayer-Anderson Museum stands against the south-eastern corner of the mosque. It occupies two joined houses from the 16th and 17th centuries, furnished by Major Robert Gayer-Anderson, who lived here from 1935 to 1942 and left the contents to the Egyptian government. Its rooms, rooftop and mashrabiya screens were used as a location in the James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me, and it makes an excellent pairing with the mosque.
The mosque is in the Sayyida Zeinab district, about a kilometre east of Sayyida Zeinab metro station, so a taxi is the simplest way in. The Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hassan and the Citadel are a short ride away, and the surrounding streets have small workshops and traditional cafés. Because the mosque is a little off the main tourist circuit, it is worth asking your driver to wait or arranging a return taxi by app. Late afternoon is a particularly good time, when the low sun throws long shadows across the arches of the courtyard.
Between 876 and 879 for Ahmad ibn Tulun.
It is usually possible, and the spiral stair gives wide views, but take care on the steps.
45 minutes to an hour, plus time for the Gayer-Anderson Museum.
Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees. Women may want a headscarf.
It is usually one of the quieter monuments in Cairo.
The Gayer-Anderson Museum, two historic houses furnished by Major Gayer-Anderson.
By taxi, or a walk of about a kilometre from Sayyida Zeinab metro station.
Tour operator
A Cairo food tour company founded in 2016 by two Egyptian women, leading small-group walking tours through Downtown's street food and local eateries.
Bar
Cairo's best-known live music club, open since 2001 in Agouza, with local bands and DJs on stage, cocktails and a food menu most nights.
Café
The celebrated coffeehouse of Khan el-Khalili, serving mint tea, Turkish coffee and shisha in a mirrored alley since the late 18th century.
Thing to do
Cairo's great historic bazaar, a maze of lanes selling lanterns, spices, brass and jewellery around a khan founded in the 1380s.