Thing to do
Marine Drive and Girgaum Chowpatty
A three-kilometre seafront promenade curving from Nariman Point to Girgaum Chowpatty beach, best walked at sunset when the Queen's Necklace lights come on.
A Victorian market hall of 1869, now Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai, selling fruit, vegetables, household goods and pets just north of CSMT.
Good to know
Crawford Market, officially renamed Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai, is one of the great Victorian market halls of South Mumbai. It was completed in 1869 to a design by the British architect William Emerson, and stands at a busy junction opposite the Mumbai Police headquarters, just north of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. Even if you do not plan to buy anything, it is worth visiting for the building and for the sheer energy of a working city market.
Look up as you approach: the building carries relief panels carved by John Lockwood Kipling showing workers of the region. He completed two panels and left India before finishing a third. Inside, the market is laid out in sections, and you will find stalls selling fruit and vegetables, poultry, clothes and dress materials, toys, jewellery and household goods. The pet section, with dogs, cats and birds for sale, is part of the market too, and some visitors find it uncomfortable.
The wholesale fruit trade moved to Navi Mumbai in 1996, but the retail fruit stalls remain one of the most enjoyable parts of a visit, and what is on display changes with the seasons. If you want to buy, check prices at a couple of stalls first and be ready to negotiate politely.
Go in the morning, when the produce is freshest and the heat is lower, and allow about an hour. Bring small notes if you plan to buy fruit or snacks, and a bag to carry them in, as the walk back to a taxi can be long. The market is crowded and the floors can be wet, so wear closed shoes and keep valuables secure. Photography of the building is generally welcomed, but ask stallholders before photographing them.
Crawford Market is easy to combine with Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus to the south, and with a longer walk north into the old bazaar streets. Chor Bazaar, the antiques and second-hand market on Mutton Street, is a few kilometres away and makes a good second stop for anyone who enjoys rummaging. Shree Thaker Bhojanalay in Kalbadevi, a short taxi ride away, is a good place for lunch after the market.
Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai.
The market building was completed in 1869.
John Lockwood Kipling, who completed two panels showing workers of the region.
Fruit, vegetables, poultry, clothes, toys, jewellery and household goods.
Yes, the market includes a pet section selling dogs, cats and birds.
In the morning, when produce is freshest and it is cooler.
About an hour.
Opposite the Mumbai Police headquarters, just north of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus.
Bar
A rooftop bar on the 34th floor of the Four Seasons in Worli, with skyline and Arabian Sea views, inventive cocktails, wine and international small plates.
Attraction
The 1924 basalt arch on the Apollo Bunder waterfront, built to mark a royal visit and now the departure point for Elephanta ferries.
Café
Around 120 years old and described as Mumbai's oldest operating Irani cafe, serving bun maska, Irani chai, keema pav and cherry custard near Marine Lines.
Tour operator
An award-winning social enterprise running Dharavi tours, street food walks, bicycle tours and local transport tours, with most profits funding community projects.