Cours Saleya Flower Market

The Cours Saleya is the long, open square on the seaward edge of Vieux Nice, and its market is one of the best reasons to get up early in the city. Local people have shopped here since 1861, and the flower market is listed among the exceptional markets of France by the National Council of Culinary Arts.

From Tuesday to Sunday the stalls sell flower arrangements, bouquets, plants and single stems, and the florists and growers are on hand to give advice on choosing and caring for flowers and plants. Alongside them, traders sell fresh fruit and vegetables, local crafts and regional specialities, so it is also a good place to put together a picnic for Castle Hill or the beach. On Mondays the flower stalls give way to an antiques and second-hand market, which draws collectors and bargain hunters. In summer an arts and crafts market sets up after sunset.

The square has a long history as a public stage. In the second half of the nineteenth century the floats of the Nice Carnival paraded along the Cours before the festivities moved to the Promenade des Anglais and later to Place Masséna. Today the buildings that line it hold cafés and restaurant terraces that stay busy from breakfast until late evening, and the square stays lively long after the stalls have gone.

Come in the morning for the market at its liveliest and the best choice of produce. By early afternoon traders are packing up and the terraces take over. Bring cash for small purchases and a bag for your shopping, keep an eye on your bag in the crowds, and do not expect to drive here: the square and the surrounding lanes are pedestrian.

For a view over the market and the sea, climb the Ponchettes steps opposite Place Pierre Gautier. From the Cours it is a short walk to the Opéra, Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate and the foot of Castle Hill, and the Promenade des Anglais runs just behind the row of buildings on the seaward side. Allow an hour to browse and longer if you stop for a coffee on one of the terraces.