Attraction
Gateway of India
The 1924 basalt arch on the Apollo Bunder waterfront, built to mark a royal visit and now the departure point for Elephanta ferries.
An ancient spring-fed temple tank on Malabar Hill, surrounded by shrines and old houses, with origins in the 12th century and a legend tied to the Ramayana.
Good to know
Banganga Tank is a rectangular, stepped water tank in the Walkeshwar area of Malabar Hill, part of the Walkeshwar Temple complex. It was originally built in 1127 by Lakshman Prabhu, a minister at the court of the Silhara kings of Thane, and rebuilt in 1715 with funds from Rama Kamath. Its name means the Ganges created by an arrow, after the legend that Lakshmana shot an arrow into the ground to bring up water for Rama, who was thirsty while searching for Sita.
What makes the tank remarkable is its setting. It lies only a few dozen metres from the sea, yet it is fed by a spring, so its water stays fresh. Stone steps lead down to the water on all sides, and around them stand temples, shrines and old houses that give the area the feel of a small temple town rather than one of the city's most expensive neighbourhoods. The complex includes the Walkeshwar Temple, rebuilt in concrete in modern times, the Parshuram Temple, and maths of the Goud Saraswat Brahmin community with the samadhis of past spiritual leaders. A cremation ground lies close by.
The tank is busiest during Dev Diwali in November, when people light lamps around the water and there are devotional songs, chants and dances. On ordinary days it is much quieter, and the tank feels like a neighbourhood space as much as a sacred one. It is a living religious site, so dress modestly, ask before photographing people and remove your shoes if you go into any of the temples.
Allow 45 minutes to an hour to walk around the tank and its lanes. Early morning and late afternoon are the most pleasant times, when the light is soft and the steps are in shade. The old stone steps are uneven, so take care with small children and if your mobility is limited.
The tank is tucked away near the western end of Malabar Hill, and taxis can drop you on Walkeshwar Road, from where it is a short walk down the lanes. Mani Bhavan and the northern end of Marine Drive at Girgaum Chowpatty are a short taxi ride away, so the three make a good half-day route through the older parts of South Mumbai.
It was first built in 1127 and rebuilt in 1715.
Yes. The tank and the lanes around it are open to the public.
The tank is fed by a natural spring.
Lakshmana is said to have shot an arrow into the ground to bring up water for Rama, giving the name Ganges created by an arrow.
Early morning or late afternoon on an ordinary day, or during Dev Diwali in November for the lamp-lighting.
Modest clothing, as the tank is part of an active temple complex.
Around 45 minutes to an hour.
Mani Bhavan and Girgaum Chowpatty are a short taxi ride away.
Bar
A rooftop bar on the 34th floor of the Four Seasons in Worli, with skyline and Arabian Sea views, inventive cocktails, wine and international small plates.
Café
Around 120 years old and described as Mumbai's oldest operating Irani cafe, serving bun maska, Irani chai, keema pav and cherry custard near Marine Lines.
Thing to do
A three-kilometre seafront promenade curving from Nariman Point to Girgaum Chowpatty beach, best walked at sunset when the Queen's Necklace lights come on.
Tour operator
An award-winning social enterprise running Dharavi tours, street food walks, bicycle tours and local transport tours, with most profits funding community projects.