Aram Vada Pav

Aram Vada Pav is a pavement counter in the Capital Cinema Building on Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Road, directly across from Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus. It has been in business for more than 80 years and is one of the best places to try vada pav, the snack that fuels Mumbai's commuters and is often described as the city's signature street food.

A vada pav is simple but satisfying. A ball of spiced, chunky potato is coated in chickpea batter, deep-fried and tucked into a split pav, the soft bread roll found all over Mumbai. It is served with a dry red garlic chutney, a green coriander chutney and one or two fried green chillies. Aram's potato filling is made without the turmeric that most Mumbai vadas use, which gives it a slightly different colour and taste. A glass of buttermilk is a good way to cool the heat.

There is no dining room. You join the queue at the counter, and each vada pav is assembled when your turn comes, so it reaches you hot. Most people eat standing up on the pavement, looking across at the Gothic facade of the railway terminus, which is part of the experience. It is quick, inexpensive and entirely vegetarian.

Aram suits anyone who wants a taste of everyday Mumbai, including budget travellers and food lovers on a street-food trail. Families can enjoy it too, although small children may find the chillies and chutneys too spicy, so ask for them on the side. Expect a short wait at busy times, especially around lunch and the evening commute. Allow 15 to 20 minutes, including queuing. Carry small change.

The counter makes an ideal stop before or after visiting the terminus, and Crawford Market is a short walk to the north. The Fort district, with Kala Ghoda, Jimmy Boy and the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya further south, can easily be reached on foot or by a short taxi ride. If you are planning a day of eating your way around the city, start here and then try a thali in Kalbadevi or kebabs in Nagpada later.