Masque

Masque opened in 2016 in a former mill building in Mahalaxmi, and it quickly became one of the restaurants most associated with modern fine dining in India. It was founded by Aditi Dugar and the chef Prateek Sadhu, and the kitchen is now led by head chef Varun Totlani. The restaurant ranked 21st in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants in 2022 and has appeared on that list in several years.

The format is a ten-course chef's tasting menu, which Masque describes as the first of its kind in India. The cooking is driven by ingredients and the menu follows the seasons, so there is no fixed list of signature dishes to look out for. Expect a series of small, carefully composed courses that use Indian ingredients and techniques in unfamiliar ways. The restaurant also has a project called The Masque Lab, and its cocktail list is worth exploring before or with dinner.

This is a special-occasion restaurant. It suits food lovers who enjoy a long, set meal and are happy to put themselves in the kitchen's hands, and it works well for couples and small groups. If you have dietary requirements, mention them when you book, as a tasting menu needs planning. It is not the place for a quick bite or a meal with young children.

Reservations are accepted and strongly advised, ideally a week or more in advance. Allow at least two and a half to three hours for the full menu. It is one of the most expensive restaurants in the city, so check the current menu price and drinks pairing options on the official website before you go. Smart casual dress is sensible. Arrive on time, as a tasting menu is served at a steady pace through the evening.

The restaurant is in the Shakti Mills Lane area off Dr. E. Moses Road, part of the redeveloped mill district between Mahalaxmi and Lower Parel. Taxis are the easiest way to get there, particularly at night. The same team runs Paradox, a cocktail lounge in the same mill complex, which makes an obvious place for a drink before or after dinner, and The Bombay Canteen in Kamala Mills is a short taxi ride away.