Al-Azhar Mosque

Al-Azhar Mosque was founded in 970 by the Fatimid general Jawhar al-Siqilli, soon after the dynasty established Cairo, and the first Friday prayers were held here in 972. It became a centre of learning almost immediately, and Al-Azhar University, which grew from it, is one of the oldest continuously operating universities in the world and the leading institution of Sunni Islamic scholarship.

Over a thousand years, rulers added to the mosque, so it is now a layered building rather than a single design. You enter into a large marble-paved courtyard surrounded by arcades with keel-shaped Fatimid arches and carved stucco. Look up for the minarets: the Qaytbay minaret from the late 15th century, with three balconies supported by muqarnas, and the twin-headed minaret of al-Ghuri from 1509. Beyond the courtyard, the prayer hall is a forest of columns, many reused from older buildings.

The mosque is a living place of worship and study, which is part of its appeal. Visitors of any faith are generally welcome outside prayer times, and entry is free. Dress modestly: long trousers or skirts and covered shoulders for everyone, and a headscarf for women. Shoes are removed at the entrance, so wear socks if the marble is hot. Avoid visiting during Friday midday prayers, when the mosque is full.

Allow 30 to 45 minutes to walk round the courtyard and take in the architecture quietly. Photography is usually tolerated in the courtyard, but be discreet and do not photograph people at prayer. The calm inside is a contrast to the traffic and crowds just outside, and it is a good place to pause during a day in the old city.

The mosque stands on Al-Azhar Street, directly opposite the Khan el-Khalili bazaar and the Mosque of al-Hussein, reached by a pedestrian underpass. Al-Azhar Park is a short walk or taxi ride to the east, and Al-Muizz Street begins a few minutes away, so this is a natural starting point for exploring Islamic Cairo on foot. Taxis can drop you on Al-Azhar Street, though traffic here is heavy at most times of day. A good plan is to visit the mosque in the morning, walk north along Al-Muizz Street, and end the day in the cafés of the bazaar or with sunset views from Al-Azhar Park.