Al Alam Palace

Al Alam Palace is the ceremonial palace of the Sultan of Oman and the centrepiece of Old Muscat, the small walled town on a bay east of Mutrah. The present building was completed in 1972 for Sultan Qaboos, replacing an earlier palace that Sultan Said bin Sultan had built in the early 1800s on the foundations of an old sea wall. That older palace was damaged in 1895 and demolished in 1971. The new design, by the Indian firm Shapoorji Pallonji, is bold and theatrical, with a façade of tall gold and blue columns.

The palace is used for official occasions and the inner grounds are closed to the public, so a visit means viewing it from outside. The main approach is a long arcaded plaza, about 250 metres from end to end, with the palace at the north end and the National Museum facing it. The surrounding government buildings are white, with crenellated rooftops and wooden balconies in traditional style. Two Portuguese forts of the 16th century, Al Mirani and Al Jalali, stand on the rocks either side of the bay and frame the view. Al Mirani is now open to visitors as a museum, while Al Jalali is seen from outside.

Visitors can walk up to the gates and take photographs, and the palace can also be seen from the water on harbour boat trips from Mutrah. Early morning and late afternoon give the softest light, and the plaza is fully exposed to the sun at midday. Fifteen to thirty minutes is enough for the palace itself, but most people spend a few hours in Old Muscat by adding the museums nearby. Respectful behaviour is expected near the gates.

It suits everyone, including families, as it costs nothing and the walk is short and flat. Photographers should bring a wide lens to fit in the columns, and the view of the forts from the corniche road just outside is worth a stop too.

Old Muscat is reached by taxi from Mutrah in a few minutes along the coast road, or from the Qurum hotels in around half an hour. Bait Al Zubair and the National Museum are both within walking distance, and Al Mirani Fort is beside the palace, so all four can be covered in a single morning.