Brera District

Brera is the most charming neighbourhood in central Milan, a grid of narrow cobbled streets between the Castello Sforzesco and the fashion district. It grew up around the Palazzo di Brera, home since the 18th century to the Academy of Fine Arts, and for much of the 20th century it was the city's bohemian quarter, where painters, writers and students gathered in cheap bars and trattorias. Today it is smarter and more expensive, but it has kept its small scale and its creative streak.

A walk here is about wandering rather than ticking off sights. Start on Via Brera, by the Pinacoteca, and look into the arcaded courtyard of the Palazzo di Brera with its bronze statue of Napoleon. Behind it, the Brera Botanical Garden is a small, free green space that was originally laid out in the 18th century. Then follow the pedestrian lanes of Via Fiori Chiari, Via Madonnina and Via Fiori Oscuri, lined with galleries, jewellers, antique dealers and design shops. Two churches are worth a look: San Marco, where Verdi's Requiem was first performed in 1874, and the early Christian basilica of San Simpliciano.

Brera is also the heart of the Brera Design District, one of the main hubs of Milan Design Week each April, when showrooms and courtyards open for installations and events and the streets are packed. The area is busy at aperitivo time throughout the year, with tables spilling into the lanes, and there are restaurants for every budget, from simple trattorias to fashionable dining rooms.

The neighbourhood suits couples, art lovers and anyone who enjoys browsing. It is pleasant at any time, but late afternoon into early evening is when it feels most lively. The cobbles can be awkward for wheelchairs and pushchairs, and some shops close for a long lunch or on Monday mornings. Allow a couple of hours to explore, or combine a walk with the Pinacoteca di Brera for a full half day.

The nearest metro stops are Lanza on line M2 and Montenapoleone on line M3. From the north end, Corso Garibaldi leads on towards Porta Garibaldi and the Porta Nuova skyscrapers, while the Duomo is about 15 minutes' walk to the south.