Restaurant
Enoteca Pinchiorri
Florence's three-Michelin-star dining room, opened in 1972 by Giorgio Pinchiorri and Annie Féolde, famous for its formal service and extraordinary wine cellar.
A counter inside the Mercato Centrale since 1872, famous for lampredotto and boiled beef sandwiches with salsa verde, plus simple pasta and roast meats.
Good to know
Da Nerbone is the most famous food counter in the Mercato Centrale and one of the best places in Florence to try lampredotto, the city's signature street food. It has been serving market traders and shoppers since 1872, and it sits on the ground floor of the market among the butchers and grocers, rather than in the newer food hall upstairs.
Lampredotto is the fourth stomach of the cow, slow-cooked in a broth with tomato, onion, celery and herbs until tender. At Nerbone it is sliced to order, piled into a round bread roll, the top half often dipped in the cooking broth, and finished with bright green salsa verde and, if you like, a spicy red sauce. If tripe does not appeal, the boiled beef (bollito) sandwich is just as traditional and a gentler introduction. The counter also serves a short menu of simple dishes such as pasta, soups and roast meats at lunchtime, which change with the day.
The set-up is basic: you order and pay at the counter, then eat standing at the bar like most locals, or try to find a space at the handful of tables opposite. There is usually a queue around lunchtime, but it moves quickly. Prices are low, making it one of the cheapest good meals in the centre. Like the rest of the ground-floor market, it is a daytime place, so come for breakfast-time snacks or lunch rather than dinner, and check opening days before making a special trip.
It suits adventurous eaters, budget travellers and anyone who wants to eat as Florentines do. Children who are unsure about tripe can have a beef sandwich. There is little room for pushchairs during the lunchtime rush.
The stall is inside the Mercato Centrale in San Lorenzo, about five minutes' walk from Santa Maria Novella station. After eating, browse the rest of the ground-floor stalls for cheese, salumi and olive oil, climb to the food hall upstairs for a coffee or gelato, or walk a few minutes to the Medici Chapels. If you are new to lampredotto, watch what the regulars order and ask for a small portion first. Cash is useful for small purchases at the market.
Lampredotto and boiled beef sandwiches, served with salsa verde.
The fourth stomach of the cow, slow-cooked in a seasoned broth, and Florence's best-known street food.
Since 1872.
On the ground floor of the Mercato Centrale, among the traditional market stalls.
There are a few tables, but many customers eat standing at the counter.
It is a daytime counter that follows the market's hours, so go for lunch.
Yes, sandwiches and simple dishes are inexpensive.
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