Restaurant
Enoteca Pinchiorri
Florence's three-Michelin-star dining room, opened in 1972 by Giorgio Pinchiorri and Annie Féolde, famous for its formal service and extraordinary wine cellar.
Trattoria Sostanza
A narrow Florentine trattoria open since 1869, known for chicken cooked in butter, bistecca and a meringue cake, best booked well ahead.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic Florentine trattoria
- Area
- Santa Maria Novella, Florence, Italy
- Price
- $$$ · Upscale
Good to know
- Historic interior
- Shared tables
Why we recommend it
Trattoria Sostanza, known to many Florentines as "il Troia", is one of the oldest restaurants in Florence. It opened in 1869 in a narrow room on Via del Porcellana, a quiet street between Santa Maria Novella and the Arno, and it still feels like a place from another era: a small, narrow dining room with tables packed closely together, where the menu has barely changed since it opened and much of the cooking is done over hot coals.
The menu is short and has changed very little over the decades. The dish everyone comes for is the petti di pollo al burro, chicken breast seared in a bath of butter over the coals and brought to the table sizzling in the steel pan it was cooked in. The bistecca alla fiorentina is another favourite, served with stewed beans, and the meal traditionally ends with a meringue cake layered with cream, chocolate and wild strawberries.
It is not cheap for a trattoria, and the experience is old-fashioned in every sense: service is brisk, the room is noisy and cramped, and you may share a table. That is part of the charm for regulars and visitors alike. Booking is essential, by telephone, often several days in advance, as the dining room is small and fills quickly. The restaurant opens on weekdays only, so plan accordingly; lunch is often easier to book than dinner, and a visit in the shoulder season is usually calmer.
It suits travellers who want classic Florentine cooking in a historic setting and do not mind a little chaos. It is less suited to young children or anyone wanting a long, quiet dinner. Vegetarians will find limited choice.
The trattoria is about five minutes' walk from Piazza Santa Maria Novella and from the Ognissanti church, and about ten minutes from the station. The riverside around Ponte alla Carraia and the Ognissanti area, with several of the city's best hotels, are just around the corner. Have a back-up plan for dinner if you cannot get a table, as last-minute bookings are rarely possible in busy months. Arriving on time for your reservation matters too, as tables are turned around quickly.
Trattoria Sostanza FAQs
When did Trattoria Sostanza open?
In 1869, making it one of the oldest trattorias in Florence.
What is Sostanza famous for?
Chicken breast cooked in butter and served in its pan, bistecca alla fiorentina and a meringue cake with cream and strawberries.
Do I need to book?
Yes, booking by phone is essential, often days ahead, as the room is small.
When is it open?
It opens on weekdays only; call to check current times and to reserve.
Is it expensive?
It is pricier than many trattorias, especially if you order the bistecca.
Is it suitable for vegetarians?
Choice is limited, as the menu centres on meat dishes.
Where is it?
At Via del Porcellana 25r, a few minutes' walk from Piazza Santa Maria Novella.