Gerbeaud

Gerbeaud is the most famous confectionery in Budapest and an institution on Vörösmarty tér, the square at the northern end of Váci utca. Its story began in 1858, when Henrik Kugler, from a family of confectioners, opened his business after training in cities across Europe. In 1884 he invited the Swiss confectioner Emil Gerbeaud, whom he had met in Paris, to join him in Budapest. Gerbeaud gradually took over the business, which has carried his name ever since, and he introduced many of the sweets and confections for which it became known.

The café has occupied the ground floor of its building on the square since 1870, and the main salon is a grand, old-world space with marble, fine woods and bronze, stucco ceilings and chandeliers. It feels like a step back into the late 19th century, and it is one of the best places in the city to sit with a coffee and a slice of cake in a historic setting.

The counters display a wide selection of cakes and pastries, including Hungarian classics such as Dobos torte, with its caramel top, and Esterházy torte, layered with walnut and cream. The house sweets carry on Emil Gerbeaud's legacy: cognac sour cherries, cat's tongue chocolates, pralines and biscuits, many of them packed in boxes that make good gifts to take home. Light meals and breakfast are also served.

Gerbeaud does not take reservations; guests are seated at free tables in order of arrival. Mornings and early afternoons on weekdays are calmer than weekends, and in good weather the terrace on Vörösmarty tér is a popular spot, especially in December when the square hosts one of the city's main Christmas markets. Prices are higher than in an ordinary cukrászda, which reflects the history and location. The café is open from 09:00 to 20:00 from Sunday to Thursday and until 21:00 on Friday and Saturday.

Vörösmarty tér station on metro line M1, the oldest line in continental Europe, is right in front of the café. The Danube promenade is two minutes away, and Váci utca leads south to the Great Market Hall. St Stephen's Basilica is about ten minutes' walk to the north-east.