Stand

Stand is the restaurant of chefs Tamás Széll and Szabina Szulló, two of the best-known names in modern Hungarian cooking, and it holds two Michelin stars. Széll made his name representing Hungary at the Bocuse d'Or, and both chefs previously worked at Onyx, one of the first Budapest restaurants to gain international recognition. They opened Stand in 2018 in a quiet street in District VI, with the aim of serving Hungarian flavours, made from local produce, in a fine-dining setting.

The cooking takes familiar dishes from Hungarian homes and restaurants and refines them. Goulash soup and Somlói sponge, a traditional layered dessert with chocolate sauce and cream, have long been associated with the chefs, and the tasting menu changes with the seasons to feature game, fish from Hungarian waters, vegetables and dairy from small producers. The kitchen sits behind a glass wall, so diners can watch the team at work.

The menu is built around set tasting menus rather than à la carte, so the kitchen decides the sequence and diners choose the length of the meal. Expect a long, carefully paced evening of several courses, so it is best not to plan anything else afterwards. A tasting menu is the most expensive way to eat in Budapest, but it is also the clearest introduction to how chefs here are using local produce and old recipes in new ways.

This is a special-occasion restaurant suited to couples, food lovers and anyone who wants to understand how Hungarian cuisine has developed in recent years. Booking ahead is essential, particularly at weekends, and it is wise to mention dietary requirements when you reserve. Stand is generally closed on Sundays and Mondays, but opening days can change around holidays and private events, so check the official website when planning. Smart casual dress fits the setting.

The restaurant is on Székely Mihály utca, a short walk from both Deák Ferenc tér, where metro lines M1, M2 and M3 meet, and the Opera on Andrássy út. The surrounding streets of the Jewish Quarter, with Gozsdu Courtyard and the ruin bars, are only a few minutes away if you want a drink afterwards. The chefs' more casual Stand25 bistro is a separate venue elsewhere in the city.