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Varoulko Seaside

Restaurant · Fish and seafood$$$Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Athens

Chef Lefteris Lazarou's seafood restaurant on the harbour of Mikrolimano in Piraeus, built around the day's catch with à la carte and tasting menus.

At a glance

Type
Fish and seafood
Area
Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Athens, Greece
Price
$$$ · Upscale
Opening
Open daily · 13:00–00:00
Official site
varoulko.gr

Good to know

  • Harbour views
  • Terrace
  • Tasting menus
  • Air conditioning

Why we recommend it

Varoulko Seaside is the restaurant of chef Lefteris Lazarou, one of the best-known names in Greek seafood cooking. It sits on the waterfront of Mikrolimano, the small, pretty harbour in Piraeus lined with fishing boats and yachts, and its tables look straight out over the moored boats. The Michelin Guide describes the mood as relaxing and maritime, and on a warm evening the terrace is hard to beat.

Lazarou's years cooking on cruise ships and his travels shaped his style, which treats the Greek catch with a light, inventive touch. The menu is built around the daily haul, which might include sea bass, red mullet, grouper, tuna, shrimp and prawns, and it changes with what comes in. Sample dishes on the restaurant's site include onion panna cotta with marinated crayfish, crabmeat with green apple and dill, and fish with wild mushrooms, while desserts such as gianduja panna cotta with poached pear round things off. There is an à la carte menu and two tasting menus.

This is a polished restaurant rather than a simple harbour taverna, and prices are high, so it suits celebrations, seafood lovers and anyone wanting a memorable dinner by the water. The restaurant is open every day from 13:00 until midnight, which makes a long lunch overlooking the harbour an attractive alternative to dinner. The dining room is air-conditioned for the summer heat.

Book through the restaurant's online reservation system or by phone, and ask for a terrace table if the weather is fine. Allow at least two hours, and longer for a tasting menu. If you are unsure what to order, the staff can talk you through the day's fish and suggest a Greek white wine to go with it.

Mikrolimano is in Piraeus, roughly 12 kilometres from central Athens. A taxi is the simplest option, especially at night, and the journey from the centre takes longer in evening traffic, so allow plenty of time. Arriving before sunset gives you time to walk around the small harbour and watch the fishing boats come and go before you sit down. Lazarou's cooking has also been recognised with Greek awards, including the Greek Cuisine Awards and the Chrysoi Skoufoi.

Varoulko Seaside FAQs

Who is the chef at Varoulko Seaside?

Lefteris Lazarou.

Where is it?

At 54 Akti Koumoundourou on the harbour of Mikrolimano in Piraeus.

When is it open?

Every day from 13:00 to midnight.

What is on the menu?

Fish and seafood based on the daily catch, with an à la carte menu and two tasting menus.

How do I book?

Online through the restaurant's reservation page or by phone on +30 210 522 8400.

How do I get there from central Athens?

A taxi is the simplest option; Mikrolimano is in Piraeus, roughly 12 kilometres from the centre.

Is there outdoor seating?

Yes, there is a terrace overlooking the harbour.

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