Candelaria

Candelaria opened in 2011 on Rue de Saintonge in the Haut-Marais, created by the Quixotic Projects team, which also runs other bars in Paris. From the street it looks like a small taqueria, with a counter and a few stools, but behind an unmarked door at the back is a dimly lit cocktail bar that became one of the best-known in the city. It helped bring agave spirits and the speakeasy format to a wider Paris audience.

At the front, the taqueria serves tacos made with fresh tortillas, tostadas and other small Mexican dishes, with fillings such as slow-cooked meats, fish and vegetables. It is a good spot for a quick, inexpensive bite before or after drinks. In the bar at the back, the cocktail list focuses on mezcal and tequila, along with other spirits, and changes regularly. The style is creative but unpretentious, and the bartenders are happy to recommend something if you describe what you like. The room is small, with low lighting, candles and a lively soundtrack.

Candelaria suits cocktail lovers, groups of friends and couples who enjoy a busy, sociable bar. It is not a quiet place for conversation at weekends, when the room fills up and the music rises. The bar is open from 6pm to 2am. Reservations are accepted for the cocktail bar only; the taqueria takes no bookings, so walk in for tacos.

Booking the bar is the most reliable way to get in, especially from Thursday to Saturday. Without a booking, arrive early in the evening or try later on weekdays. Prices are in the moderate range for Paris cocktail bars. Allow an hour or two for a couple of cocktails and some tacos. Staff are used to international visitors, and the menus are easy to navigate.

Filles du Calvaire station on metro line 8 is about five minutes' walk away, and Saint-Sébastien–Froissart and Temple are also close. Candelaria is in one of the liveliest parts of the Marais for food and drink: the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the boutiques of Rue Charlot and the cocktail bars of the Haut-Marais, including Little Red Door, are all within a few minutes' walk.