Le Shapko

Le Shapko is the address music lovers head for after dinner in Vieux Nice. It was originally opened by the Russian saxophonist Dimitri Shapko and has been run for more than a decade by Michel Palagonia. This small bar on Rue Rossetti, close to the square of the same name and the cathedral, is known for live music, especially jazz, and it draws a mixed crowd of locals and visitors.

The local Best of Nice blog describes live jazz, blues and funk seven nights a week, with a rotating line-up of established local players and emerging talent, and calls the bar the hub for musicians in Nice. Bands are scheduled to start at 22:30, or 21:30 on Sundays, and late-night jam sessions continue into the early hours as other musicians drop in. There is no cover charge. The line-up changes, so it is worth checking the bar's social media or simply dropping in to see who is playing.

Le Shapko opens in the evening and stays open late, into the early hours, which makes it a natural final stop after dinner in the old town. Arrive early, before the bands start, if you want a good table; once the music begins the room can be crowded and seating is limited. Opening times can change, especially out of season, so confirm before making a special trip.

The old town is largely pedestrian, so come on foot, and bear in mind that small bars in the lanes can be hard to access for visitors with reduced mobility; call ahead if this is a concern.

The bar suits couples, small groups and solo travellers who enjoy live music in an intimate setting. It is a world away from the big pubs and clubs, so choose it if you want to listen rather than shout over loud music. Families with children will find it less suitable, given the late hours.

Rue Rossetti is in the heart of Vieux Nice, a few steps from Place Rossetti, Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate and the Fenocchio ice-cream parlour. Plan dinner at one of the restaurants nearby, such as Olive & Artichaut on Rue Sainte-Réparate, then walk round the corner for the music. The seafront and the Cours Saleya are only a few minutes away when you leave.