Tosokchon Samgyetang

Tosokchon has been serving samgyetang since 1983 and is one of the best-known places in Seoul to try the dish. Samgyetang is a whole young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng, jujube and garlic and simmered until tender in a broth. Koreans traditionally eat it on the hottest days of summer, in the belief that fighting heat with heat restores energy, but it is comforting at any time of year.

The menu is short and focused. The standard samgyetang arrives bubbling in an earthenware pot, with a broth that is noticeably thicker and nuttier than many versions. Black chicken samgyetang is also offered for those who want to try the darker-fleshed bird. Each meal comes with a small glass of ginseng liquor, kimchi and kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi), and salt and pepper for seasoning the meat at the table. Pull the chicken apart with chopsticks and spoon, mix the rice into the broth and work your way through.

The restaurant occupies a group of traditional hanok buildings on a side street a few minutes from Gyeongbokgung Palace, with several dining rooms, some with floor seating and others with tables. It seats a large number of people and works with a quick turnover, so although queues often form outside, they usually move steadily. English, Japanese and Chinese menus are available.

It is a dependable choice for first-time visitors, families and anyone who wants a filling, mild meal that is easy for those not used to spicy food. Lunchtime and summer weekends are busiest, and the queue is longest around the summer days known as boknal, when Koreans traditionally eat samgyetang. Arriving mid-afternoon or early in the evening usually means a shorter wait. The restaurant is open every day.

Children are welcome, and a pot can be shared between a child and an adult, but it arrives extremely hot, so let it cool for a minute before anyone digs in.

Gyeongbokgung Station on Line 3 is about 200 metres away from Exit 2, so it fits easily around a palace visit. Afterwards, explore the lanes of Seochon, where small cafés, galleries and Tongin Market, known for its lunchbox made with old brass coins, are a short walk away.