Café
Onion Seongsu
The original branch of the Onion bakery café, set in a stripped-back 1970s building in Seongsu that once housed a factory, known for pandoro and butter…
A traditional tea house in the 1933 hanok of novelist Lee Tae-jun, a listed folk heritage building in Seongbuk-dong run by his grand-niece.
Good to know
Suyeon Sanbang is a traditional tea house in the former home of Lee Tae-jun, one of the leading Korean short-story writers of the 1930s. He built the house in 1933 and lived here until 1946, writing works such as Dalbam (Moonlit Night) and Doldari (Stone Bridge). The house is now designated as a Seoul folk cultural heritage site, and it is run as a tea house by the writer's grand-niece, which gives a visit a strong sense of continuity.
The building is an improved traditional hanok of the period, a single main house without a separate annex, with timber verandas, paper screens and a small garden set into the slope of the hill. Guests sit in the wooden rooms or on the veranda, looking out on to the garden, and the atmosphere is unhurried and quiet. It feels a long way from the city centre, though it is only a short ride away.
The menu concentrates on traditional Korean teas and sweets. It is known for medicinal and herbal brews, especially the rich ssanghwa-cha, a warming tea of herbs and roots, and traditional fruit teas such as citron are typical of houses like this. Traditional desserts, including red bean porridge and rice cakes, are a good match. If you are unsure what to choose, staff can suggest a tea for the season.
The tea house suits couples, solo travellers, literature lovers and anyone who wants a slower, more traditional experience than the busy cafés of Insadong. It is popular with Korean visitors, especially at weekends and when the garden is green in spring and summer or colourful in autumn, so expect a wait at peak times. Seongbuk-gu's heritage information lists afternoon opening on weekdays from Tuesday and longer hours at weekends; check current hours before travelling, as they can change. Prices are moderate for a heritage setting.
Seongbuk-dong is a leafy hillside district north of the old city wall, home to embassies, galleries and historic houses. From Hansung University Station on Line 4, take a local bus or a taxi up Seongbuk-ro, or walk for around 20 minutes. Nearby you can visit Simujang, the hanok of the independence activist and poet Han Yong-un, Gilsangsa Temple and the Seoul City Wall's Bugaksan section.
It was built in 1933 by the novelist Lee Tae-jun, who lived here until 1946.
Yes. It is designated as a Seoul folk cultural heritage site.
It is run by Lee Tae-jun's grand-niece.
Traditional teas such as ssanghwa-cha or citron tea, with red bean porridge or rice cakes.
The district lists afternoon opening from Tuesday to Friday and longer hours at weekends; check current hours before you go.
At weekends and in spring and autumn there can be a queue, so go on a weekday if you can.
From Hansung University Station on Line 4, take a local bus or taxi up Seongbuk-ro, or walk for about 20 minutes.
Simujang, Gilsangsa Temple and the Bugaksan section of the Seoul City Wall.
Hotel
The first Four Seasons in South Korea, a luxury hotel near Gwanghwamun with palace and Namsan views, a year-round pool and the Michelin-starred Yu Yuan.
Thing to do
One of Seoul's oldest traditional markets, dating from 1905, where rows of food stalls serve mung bean pancakes, mayak gimbap and noodles beside fabric merchants.
Attraction
The first and largest royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, founded in 1395 and home to the throne hall Geunjeongjeon and the Gyeonghoeru banquet pavilion.
Restaurant
Chef Mingoo Kang's tasting-menu restaurant in Gangnam, holder of three Michelin stars, which reworks Korean fermented sauces and seasonal produce with modern technique.