Thing to do
Thamel
Kathmandu's traveller quarter, a maze of narrow lanes packed with trekking shops, guesthouses, restaurants and live music bars just north of the old city.
Asan and Indra Chowk Bazaar
The old market squares of central Kathmandu on the former India to Tibet trade route, crowded with spice, grain, textile and bead sellers around small temples.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic market walk
- Area
- Asan, Kathmandu, Nepal
Good to know
- Street market
- Temples
- Spice and bead stalls
Why we recommend it
Asan and Indra Chowk are two of the ceremonial and market squares that line the old artery through Kathmandu's historic centre. They sit on one of the legendary trade routes between India and Tibet, which ran diagonally through the city from Kathmandu Durbar Square to Asan and on to the north-east. That position has made Asan one of the city's main marketplaces since ancient times, and the walk between the two squares is still one of the best ways to see daily life in the old town.
Asan is a busy junction where six streets meet. The bazaar sells foodstuffs, spices, textiles, electronics and gold and silver, and it draws shoppers from all over Kathmandu. The square is presided over by the temple of Annapurna Ajima, the patron goddess of the neighbourhood, who is linked to plentiful grain and represented by a filled grain measure rather than a statue. A Ganesh temple stands on the northern side; its tiled roofs were replaced during a renovation in 1928.
From Asan the old route leads to Indra Chowk, another market square at the meeting of streets. Its symbol is the Akash Bhairav temple on the western side, which houses a large mask of the sky god, with shops on the ground floor. On the eastern side, Raki Bazaar is a twisting alley of small shops selling glass beads. A small domed shrine replaces a Shiva temple lost in the 1934 earthquake, and a Ganesh shrine stands at the south-western corner, from where a street leads on to Makhan and Durbar Square.
Both squares come alive during festivals. In Asan, the Annapurna Jatra procession takes place in October, the day after Vijaya Dashami, and in April the Jana Baha Dyah Jatra chariot passes through both squares. During Indra Jatra in September, chariots carrying the Kumari, Ganesh and Bhairav are pulled through Indra Chowk.
The walk is free and needs no guide, though a walking tour adds context. The lanes are narrow and crowded, and motorbikes squeeze through, so keep valuables secure. Start in Thamel, about 1.4 km north of Durbar Square, and finish at the palace square for a half-day introduction to old Kathmandu.
Asan and Indra Chowk Bazaar FAQs
Where is Asan?
In the old centre of Kathmandu, on the historic route between Kathmandu Durbar Square and the north-east of the city.
What can I buy in Asan?
Foodstuffs, spices, textiles, electronics and gold and silver.
What is Indra Chowk known for?
The Akash Bhairav temple with its large mask of the sky god, and the glass bead shops of Raki Bazaar.
Does it cost anything?
No. The squares are public streets and free to walk through.
Which temple presides over Asan?
The temple of Annapurna Ajima, the goddess of the neighbourhood.
Are there festivals here?
Yes, including the Annapurna Jatra in October, the Jana Baha Dyah Jatra chariot in April and Indra Jatra in September.
How do I get there?
Walk south from Thamel and continue on to Kathmandu Durbar Square.
Is it crowded?
Yes. The lanes are narrow and busy with shoppers and motorbikes, so keep valuables secure.