Hotel Vajra

Hotel Vajra stands at the foot of the Swayambhunath hill, on the pilgrim road to the stupa and close to the Bijeswori temple complex. The hotel describes its design as an architectural feast harmonising beauty, practicality and safety, and it is surrounded by trees and flower gardens with views across the valley towards the Himalaya.

The chief architect, Phil Hawes, was associated with Frank Lloyd Wright and taught graduate architecture with Bruce Goff, both champions of organic architecture. His design blends Nepali pagoda-style roofs, a tradition the hotel traces to the medieval architect Arniko, with local materials and modern earthquake-resistant techniques. The doors and windows were designed and carved by Utam Raj of Patan, the ceiling frescoes of the Great Pagoda Room and the pagoda bar were painted by the Tibetan master Rinchen Norbu and his associates, and the restaurant walls carry frescoes by the Tamang painter Bimal Moktan.

The hotel is also a cultural centre. It houses the October Gallery, the East-West Library and Studio 7, and it lists performances of classical Nepali dance and classical and modern music among its attractions. The Great Pagoda Hall, the paved garden and the flower gardens add to the sense of a retreat.

Rooms range from suites and deluxe rooms to standard rooms, small rooms and simple rooms with a sink, which keeps the hotel within reach of a wide range of budgets. The restaurant, with its painted walls, and the frescoed pagoda bar complete the facilities.

Hotel Vajra suits independent travellers, writers, artists and anyone who prefers character to modern luxury. The Nepal Tourism Board places Swayambhunath on a hillock about 3 km west of central Kathmandu, with panoramic views over most of the valley, and the hotel's location is ideal for walking up early in the morning or at sunset, when the hilltop is popular for views over the valley. The trade-off is distance from the restaurants and shops of Thamel, which are a taxi ride away, to the east. Reservations can be made by email at [email protected]. The hotel also has a sister property, Hotel Karuna, in Lakeside, Pokhara, for those continuing west.