PCO

PCO, short for Pass Code Only, is one of Delhi's best-known speakeasies. It is run by the team behind Pass Code Hospitality, who also operate the city's private members' club A Ta Maison, and it sits in the block market of Vasant Vihar in South Delhi, close to another of the city's top cocktail bars, Lair.

The entrance is part of the fun. Guests step into an unassuming phone booth, and to get through to the bar you need the passcode, which is sent out a few times a week to a list of patrons and friends. The simplest approach for visitors is to call the bar in advance, ask how to get the code and make a reservation, rather than turning up on spec.

Inside, the space is intimate and comfortable, with design inspired by the early 1900s: antique telephones and a library of vintage books set the tone. It is an atmospheric place for a long conversation rather than a loud party, and it rewards an unhurried evening with a few carefully chosen drinks.

The cocktail programme is built around an entirely bespoke Mood Cocktail menu, alongside a selection of classics. Tell the bartenders what you are in the mood for and let them guide you. Prices are high by local standards, in line with Delhi's other leading cocktail bars, so budget accordingly. A first visit is a good occasion to try at least one drink from each side of the menu.

Dress smart casual, keep the passcode to yourself and remember that alcohol is not served to anyone under 25 in Delhi. The bar suits couples, small groups and anyone who enjoys the theatre of a hidden bar. Weekends are likely to be busiest, so a weekday visit is often the easiest way in.

Lair, another of the city's top cocktail bars, is also in Vasant Vihar, so you can combine the two in one evening, perhaps with dinner at Lair's pan-Asian dining room first. Taxis and ride-hailing cars are the most practical way to get there and back, and drivers generally know the Vasant Vihar market well. Keep the bar's phone number handy in case you need directions to the entrance.