Attraction
Stone Town
Zanzibar's historic Swahili trading town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, packed into 96 hectares of coral-stone houses, carved doors and winding lanes.
Ornate 1890s seafront building with carved wooden balconies and stained glass, restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and now home to a small history museum.
Good to know
The Old Dispensary is one of the most decorative buildings on the Stone Town seafront. It stands on Mizingani Road, roughly midway between the Palace Museum and the harbour, and its carved wooden balconies are hard to miss when you arrive by ferry. The building was commissioned in 1887 by Tharia Topan, a wealthy Ismaili Indian merchant, to mark Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, and he intended it as a charitable hospital for the poor.
Its history is more complicated than the plan. Topan died in 1891 before it was finished, his widow halted work in 1893 when funds ran out, and after a family dispute the building was sold and completed in 1894. In 1900 it was bought by Haji Nasser Nurmohamed, who used the ground floor as a dispensary and divided the upper floors into apartments, which is where the name comes from. After the 1964 revolution the government requisitioned it and it fell into decay, until the Aga Khan Trust for Culture restored it between 1990 and April 1994.
The architecture is the main reason to visit. The carved balconies with stained glass show strong Indian influence, the structure uses traditional coral rag and lime, and the exterior is finished in European neo-classical stucco. Inside, a covered courtyard is crossed by carved bridges linking the floors. The building also houses a small museum on Zanzibar's history, which adds context to a walk along the waterfront.
This is a quick stop rather than a half-day visit: 20 to 30 minutes is usually enough. It suits anyone interested in architecture or photography, and the facade is best photographed in the softer light of early morning or late afternoon. Access inside depends on what is open at the time, so treat the interior as a bonus and the exterior as the main sight. The building has stairs and uneven floors, as is common in Stone Town.
The Old Dispensary is a few minutes' walk north of the Old Fort and Forodhani Gardens, close to the port where ferries from Dar es Salaam arrive. Mercury's bar and restaurant is a short stroll along Mizingani Road, which makes it easy to finish a waterfront walk with a drink by the sea.
It was commissioned in 1887 by Tharia Topan, an Ismaili Indian merchant, to mark Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee.
From 1900 the ground floor was used as a dispensary by its new owner, Haji Nasser Nurmohamed.
The Aga Khan Trust for Culture restored it between 1990 and April 1994.
A covered courtyard with carved bridges between floors and a small museum on Zanzibar's history.
Around 20 to 30 minutes.
On Mizingani Road on the seafront, between the Palace Museum and the harbour.
Early morning or late afternoon, when the light on the balconies is softer.
Restaurant
Set-menu dinners of Persian, Omani and East African dishes on one of Stone Town's highest rooftops, with cushion seating, sunset views and live music.
Thing to do
Seafront park in front of the Old Fort that fills with grills and food stalls after sunset, serving Zanzibar pizza, urojo, seafood skewers and fresh sugarcane…
Hotel
Luxury seafront hotel in Shangani combining the 19th-century Mambo Msiige mansion with a modern wing, with 67 rooms, an infinity pool, spa and beachfront.
Bar
Fifth-floor rooftop bar and restaurant at Upendo House on Hurumzi Street, with an infinity pool, sunset cocktails, DJ evenings and a weekend brunch.