Restaurant
Sofra Restaurant & Café
A much-loved Egyptian restaurant in a restored 1930s house in central Luxor, serving mezze, stuffed pigeon and clay-pot dishes on a shaded upstairs terrace.
A Corniche restaurant with tables overlooking the Nile and the West Bank, known for Egyptian grills, stuffed pigeon, fattah and candlelit evenings.
Good to know
El-Kababgy sits on the Corniche on the East Bank, with outdoor tables that look straight across the Nile to the West Bank and the Theban hills. It is one of the few independent restaurants in Luxor where you can eat right beside the river, and it combines a view that is hard to beat with a menu of reliable Egyptian food.
As the name suggests, grilled meat is at the centre of things. Mixed grills and shish kebab are popular choices, served with rice, salads and bread, and there are traditional dishes such as hamam, the stuffed pigeon that is a speciality of Egyptian cooking, fattah layered with rice, bread and sauce, and feteer, a flaky layered pastry. The kitchen also prepares crayfish and risotto among its less traditional dishes. Although the menu is meat-focused, there are many vegetarian options, from mezze to vegetable dishes.
The atmosphere changes through the day. At lunchtime it is a relaxed spot to break up a walk along the Corniche, while in the evening the terrace is candlelit, with live guitar music on some nights, and the lights of the West Bank reflect on the water. Inside there is an air-conditioned dining room for hot afternoons. The restaurant does not serve alcohol.
El-Kababgy suits couples looking for a romantic dinner, families and groups who want a straightforward Egyptian meal, and anyone who simply wants to watch the feluccas and cruise boats on the Nile. Prices are moderate, and it makes a good alternative to dining in a hotel.
Arrive before sunset to get a riverside table and to see the colours change over the West Bank hills. The Corniche is easy to reach by taxi or horse-drawn carriage from anywhere on the East Bank, and Luxor Temple and the Mummification Museum are nearby, so you can combine dinner with an evening visit to the floodlit temple.
A small tip for good service is customary in Egyptian restaurants, and it is worth carrying some small notes for this. During Ramadan, opening times at many restaurants change, with some opening later for the evening meal that breaks the fast, so check ahead if you are visiting at that time of year. On cooler winter evenings, bring a light layer if you plan to sit on the riverside terrace.
On the Corniche (Kornish Al Nile) on the East Bank, overlooking the Nile.
Mixed grill, shish kebab, stuffed pigeon (hamam), fattah or feteer.
Yes, there are many vegetarian dishes alongside the grills.
No, alcohol is not served.
Yes, there is an air-conditioned indoor room as well as the riverside terrace.
Around sunset, for a riverside table and the view over the West Bank.
There is live guitar music on some evenings.
Hotel
A palace-style West Bank retreat of domes, courtyards and antiques set in ten hectares of palm groves and gardens, and a member of Relais & Châteaux.
Thing to do
The 2.7-kilometre ancient processional road lined with sphinxes that links Luxor Temple with Karnak, excavated and reopened in 2021 as a walking route.
Bar
An evening sound and light show inside Karnak Temple, telling the story of Thebes and its pharaohs with lighting and narration in several languages.
Attraction
The vast temple complex of Amun-Re on Luxor's East Bank, built and rebuilt by around thirty pharaohs and famous for its forest-like Great Hypostyle Hall.