Al Moudira Main Court

Lunch or dinner at Al Moudira is one of the most atmospheric meals on Luxor's West Bank. The hotel's main courtyard, framed by domes, arches and greenery, is the heart of its dining, and eating here gives non-residents a taste of the palace-style hotel created by Zeina Aboukheir in 2001. It sits on the edge of the fields at Hager El Dabayah, away from the traffic of central Luxor.

The kitchen focuses on local, seasonal ingredients, some of them grown on the hotel's own farm. The menu is short and changes with what is available, combining Egyptian dishes with international cooking. Lonely Planet has singled out its salads and grills at lunchtime, and the setting suits a long, unhurried meal. Alcohol is served, so you can have a glass of wine with your meal, which is rare outside the large hotels.

Besides the main courtyard, the hotel offers dining in the Ottoman Room and at the poolside pavilion, and for residents, private dinners can be arranged in suites, on terraces or on rooftops. The decor alone is worth the trip, with antiques, hand-painted tiles, painted glass and carved wooden doors gathered from across the region.

The Main Court suits couples, travellers looking for a special lunch after a morning at the West Bank monuments, and anyone curious about Luxor's most celebrated boutique hotel. It is more upscale and more expensive than the village restaurants nearby, and the pace is relaxed rather than quick.

Because the hotel is a private property, contact it before you go to check whether non-residents can be accommodated on your chosen day and to reserve a table; this is especially important in the busy winter season. Lunch fits neatly between visits to Medinet Habu, the Valley of the Queens and the Colossi of Memnon, which are all a short drive away. Ask your driver or taxi to wait or return, as transport from the hotel back to the ferry or bridge is not always easy to find.

A small tip for good service is customary in Egypt. If you are spending the day on the West Bank, a long lunch here in the shade of the courtyard is an ideal way to sit out the hottest hours before visiting more sites in the late afternoon.