Thing to do
Îles de la Madeleine National Park
Uninhabited volcanic islands off Dakar protected as a national park since 1976, visited by park boat for seabirds, cliffs and a clear swimming cove.
Small island a few minutes by pirogue from Ngor beach, with small beaches, seafood restaurants and well-known surf breaks on Dakar's northern tip.
Good to know
Ngor Island sits just off the beach of Ngor village on the northern tip of the Cap-Vert peninsula, and it is the easiest island escape from Dakar. The crossing by pirogue, the brightly painted wooden boats used by local fishermen, takes only a few minutes, and once there you find beaches on all sides of the island, a handful of restaurants and a surf camp.
Ngor itself is a former Lebou fishing village that has kept much of its character, with colourful pirogues pulled up on the shore and an active fishing trade. The local guide Au Sénégal describes Ngor Bay as one of Senegal's top surf spots, with waves all year, and surfers come for the breaks around the island. Swimming and scuba diving are also popular. Beginners can book lessons with mainland surf schools such as Take Off Ngor and École Surf Attitude, and a small surf camp at the tip of the island, powered by solar panels, offers rooms for surfers who want to stay over.
Food is a big part of a visit. Simple restaurants serve grilled fish and Senegalese dishes; Saveur magazine recommends Sunu Makane, also known as Chez Seck, for fish yassa made with the day's catch. Service is relaxed, so ask about prices before ordering if there is no menu. A popular local challenge in summer is to swim across from the mainland, which is only for strong swimmers who know the currents.
Boats leave from the beach at Ngor village. Return fares are typically in the low thousands of CFA francs; keep your ticket for the return trip. Wear sandals and keep valuables in a waterproof bag, as you may get wet climbing in and out of the boat. Boats run through the day, but check the time of the last return before settling in for the afternoon.
Allow half a day, or a full day if you want to surf or simply relax. Weekends are busier with Dakar families and groups, so weekdays are quieter. The island suits families, couples and solo travellers alike, but supervise children on the rocks and in the water, as currents can be strong. Back on the mainland, the restaurants and bars of Ngor and Les Almadies, including Le N'Gor on the corniche, are close by for sunset.
Take a pirogue from the beach at Ngor village; the crossing takes only a few minutes.
Return fares are usually low, in the region of a few thousand CFA francs; keep your ticket for the return.
Yes, there are beaches on all sides of the island, but watch for waves and currents.
Yes, Ngor Bay is one of Senegal's best-known surf spots, with waves year-round.
Yes, simple restaurants serve grilled fish and Senegalese dishes such as fish yassa.
Weekdays are quieter than weekends.
Sandals, sun protection, water and a waterproof bag for valuables.
Half a day is enough to swim and eat; stay a full day to surf.
Tour operator
Dakar travel agency founded in 1996 that runs city tours, excursions to Gorée, Lac Rose and Bandia, and tailor-made circuits across Senegal.
Attraction
Small car-free island off Dakar, inscribed by UNESCO in 1978 as a place of memory of the Atlantic slave trade, with museums, forts and colonial-era houses.
Restaurant
Seafood restaurant built on stilts over the sea in 1956, with views of Gorée and a nautical dining room, still run by the founding Calendini family.
Café
Bright café and concept store in Mermoz with Senegalese twists on burgers and pasta, a co-working space and a shop of local designers' products.