African Renaissance Monument

The African Renaissance Monument stands on one of the twin Collines des Mamelles in Ouakam, a hill about 100 metres high above the Atlantic on the western side of Dakar. The bronze statue, roughly 50 metres tall, shows a man holding a child aloft on one arm while drawing a woman forward with the other, a family emerging from the earth and turning towards the light. It was unveiled in April 2010, timed for the 50th anniversary of Senegal's independence.

The project was launched by the then president, Abdoulaye Wade, from his own idea, and designed by the Senegalese architect Pierre Goudiaby Atepa. It was built by Mansudae Overseas Projects, a North Korean company known for large monuments. It drew criticism from the start: some religious leaders objected to the human figures and their clothing, opponents questioned the cost and the way it was paid for with land, and some artists regretted that it was not made by Senegalese hands. Those debates are part of its story and worth knowing before you go.

Most visitors come for the scale and the view. A long flight of steps climbs the hill from the road to the base of the statue, and a lift inside takes visitors up to a viewing area near the top. From the top you look across the Cap-Vert peninsula to the Mamelles lighthouse, Ouakam, Ngor and the ocean. Even if you do not go inside, the walk up the steps gives wide views over the city.

Plan on an hour to an hour and a half. The steps are steep and exposed, so go in the early morning or late afternoon, bring water and wear a hat. Late afternoon light is good for photographs of the statue from the bottom of the steps. Opening times and ticket arrangements for the interior can change, so check on arrival. Access for wheelchair users is limited because of the long staircase.

The monument is on the road between central Dakar and the airport zone, easily reached by taxi. It fits neatly into a western Dakar itinerary with the Phare des Mamelles on the neighbouring hill, the Mosquée de la Divinité on the Ouakam coast and the beaches and restaurants of Ngor and Les Almadies.