Attraction
Gorée Island
Small car-free island off Dakar, inscribed by UNESCO in 1978 as a place of memory of the Atlantic slave trade, with museums, forts and colonial-era houses.
Shallow salt lake about 35 km north-east of Dakar whose water can turn pink, known for its salt collectors and as the former finish of the Dakar Rally.
Good to know
Lac Rose, officially Lake Retba, is the most popular day trip from Dakar. The shallow lake lies about 35 kilometres north-east of the city, separated from the Atlantic by a band of dunes. It covers about three square kilometres and is no more than three metres deep, and its salt content is extremely high, up to 40 per cent in places. For years it was the finishing point of the Dakar Rally, until the race moved to South America in 2009, and it has been on UNESCO's tentative World Heritage list since 2005.
The colour is the main draw. The pink tint comes from Dunaliella salina, a microscopic alga that produces a red pigment, and it is strongest in the dry season, roughly from late January to early March. Local guides also point out that it needs sunshine and some wind, so on a grey or still day the lake can look more brown or grey than pink. Go with flexible expectations and check the weather.
Salt harvesting gives the lake its human interest. Up to 3,000 collectors, men and women from Senegal and neighbouring countries, work here. Men wade out to break salt from the lake bed and load it into boats, protecting their skin with shea butter, while women carry and sort it on the shore, where white mounds of salt line the bank. Be respectful when taking photographs and ask first.
Activities around the lake include pirogue rides on the water, walks or camel rides over the dunes to the ocean, and 4x4 or quad excursions across the sand. Because of the salt, swimmers float easily, but the water stings cuts and eyes, so rinse off afterwards. Vendors selling crafts and souvenirs meet visitors as soon as they arrive; a polite but firm no is enough if you are not buying.
Allow half a day including travel, or more if you combine it with lunch or a trip along the coast. Many visitors come by taxi or on an organised excursion, which avoids the confusing bus connections and gives you a fixed return. Traffic leaving Dakar can be heavy, so leave early. It suits families and groups, and works well combined with a visit to the Réserve de Bandia only if you have a full day and a car.
It lies about 35 km north-east of Dakar, behind the coastal dunes.
The colour comes from the alga Dunaliella salina, which produces a red pigment.
Usually in the dry season, roughly late January to early March, on sunny and breezy days.
Yes, the salt makes you float easily, but it stings cuts and eyes, so rinse off afterwards.
Pirogue rides, dune walks, camel rides and 4x4 or quad trips, and watching the salt collectors.
By taxi, private car or organised excursion; buses exist but connections are confusing.
Half a day including travel.
Yes, it was often the rally's finishing point until the race moved to South America in 2009.
Tour operator
Dakar travel agency founded in 1996 that runs city tours, excursions to Gorée, Lac Rose and Bandia, and tailor-made circuits across Senegal.
Thing to do
Small island a few minutes by pirogue from Ngor beach, with small beaches, seafood restaurants and well-known surf breaks on Dakar's northern tip.
Restaurant
Seafood restaurant built on stilts over the sea in 1956, with views of Gorée and a nautical dining room, still run by the founding Calendini family.
Café
Bright café and concept store in Mermoz with Senegalese twists on burgers and pasta, a co-working space and a shop of local designers' products.