Attraction
Gorée Island
Small car-free island off Dakar, inscribed by UNESCO in 1978 as a place of memory of the Atlantic slave trade, with museums, forts and colonial-era houses.
IFAN's museum of West African art in a 1931 neo-Sudanese building on Place Soweto, with masks, sculpture, textiles and jewellery.
Good to know
The Musée Théodore Monod d'Art Africain is one of the oldest museums in West Africa and the best place in Dakar to see traditional art from across the region. It belongs to IFAN, the Institut Fondamental d'Afrique Noire, which is part of Cheikh Anta Diop University. The institute was founded in 1936 by the French naturalist Théodore Monod, and the museum was renamed in his honour in 2007; for decades before that it was known simply as the IFAN museum or Musée de Dakar.
The building is part of the experience. Completed in 1931 in a neo-Sudanese style, it first housed the administration of French West Africa, and its earthy facade echoes the mud architecture of the Sahel. It stands on Place Soweto in the Plateau, beside the National Assembly. The museum was renovated in the 1990s.
The collection holds about 9,000 objects, of which around 300 are on permanent display. Highlights include masks and statuettes, carved doors and seats, drums, gold jewellery linked to the trans-Saharan trade, pottery, basketry and textiles. Several displays group objects into scenes, for example Yoruba ritual or Senufo masquerade, which helps explain how they were used rather than simply showing them as art. The upper floor hosts temporary exhibitions, and the museum is one of the venues of the Dakar Biennale of contemporary African art.
Allow an hour to an hour and a half. The local guide Au Sénégal lists opening from Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 to 17:00, closed on Mondays, but check before you go, as hours and admission arrangements can change. Labels are mainly in French, so a guide or a translation app is helpful. It is a calm, manageable museum that suits visitors of all ages, and a good complement to the larger and newer Musée des Civilisations Noires.
Place Soweto is in the heart of the Plateau, within walking distance of Place de l'Indépendance and the main business district. The Institut Français, with its garden café Le Bideew, is a few minutes away, and the ferry terminal for Gorée is a short taxi ride to the east, so the museum fits easily into a day in central Dakar.
It belongs to IFAN, the Institut Fondamental d'Afrique Noire, part of Cheikh Anta Diop University.
Monod founded IFAN in 1936, and the museum took his name in 2007.
About 9,000 objects, with around 300 on permanent display.
A 1931 neo-Sudanese building that first housed the administration of French West Africa.
Au Sénégal lists Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 to 17:00, closed Monday; confirm before visiting.
An hour to an hour and a half.
Labels are mainly in French, so a guide or translation app helps.
Place de l'Indépendance, the National Assembly and the Institut Français are all close by.
Tour operator
Dakar travel agency founded in 1996 that runs city tours, excursions to Gorée, Lac Rose and Bandia, and tailor-made circuits across Senegal.
Thing to do
Small island a few minutes by pirogue from Ngor beach, with small beaches, seafood restaurants and well-known surf breaks on Dakar's northern tip.
Restaurant
Seafood restaurant built on stilts over the sea in 1956, with views of Gorée and a nautical dining room, still run by the founding Calendini family.
Café
Bright café and concept store in Mermoz with Senegalese twists on burgers and pasta, a co-working space and a shop of local designers' products.