Café
Pumpernickel Bakery
A long-running Thamel bakery with a garden courtyard, known for fresh brown bread, croissants and its yak cheese sandwich, served to trekkers since the early 1980s.
A garden cafe and bar beside the old Patan Dhoka gate, set in a converted Rana-era stable complex that also hosts lectures, films and music.
Good to know
Dhokaima Cafe sits at the entrance to old Patan, beside the Patan Dhoka gate. It is part of Yala Maya Kendra, a heritage centre created from the former stables and cowshed of the Rana general Madan Shumsher. Yala is the ancient name of Patan, and the centre hosts talks, film screenings and music, with the cafe at its centre.
When the cafe opened in the early 2000s, Nepali Times reported that the architect Siddhartha Gopalan had designed it to evoke a modest 1920s Rana style, and the brick buildings still give it a quiet, old-fashioned look. The plain brick exterior gives little away, but inside there is a large outdoor patio shaded by a big walnut tree and plants, which makes it a pleasant place to sit for an afternoon away from traffic.
The menu covers Nepali, Italian and Chinese dishes throughout the day, with good coffee and a fully stocked bar. Kimkim's guide to Kathmandu cafes singled out its Irish coffee as particularly strong. Desserts are a speciality: Nepali Times found the Dhokaima brownie with ice cream to be a favourite of regulars, alongside a layered chocolate cake, and recommended the spicy whole fish in chilli, ginger and soy as a dish to share between two or three. Sandwiches, burgers, grilled chicken shashlik and soups cover lighter appetites.
Yala Maya Kendra's three conference halls, Baggi Khana and two Gaushala halls, host a monthly classical music programme on the second day of each Nepali month, as well as workshops and other events. The Madan Puraskar Pustakalaya library and Rato Bangala School are attached to the centre, which gives the complex a lively, cultural feel. If you can, time a visit to coincide with a concert or talk.
The cafe suits couples, families and anyone looking for a relaxed meal after sightseeing. The bar makes it a good stop in the evening as well as at lunchtime. Patan Durbar Square, with its temples and the Patan Museum, is a short walk into the old town from the gate, so Dhokaima makes a natural first or last stop on a day in Patan.
Beside the Patan Dhoka gate at the entrance to old Patan, inside the Yala Maya Kendra complex.
A heritage centre converted from the stables and cowshed of the Rana general Madan Shumsher.
Western and Asian dishes all day, coffee and a full bar.
Yes. A large garden area with plants and shade.
Kimkim's guide recommends the Irish coffee; the all-day menu covers breakfast to dinner.
Yes. Yala Maya Kendra hosts a monthly classical music programme on the second day of each Nepali month, plus talks and screenings.
A short walk into the old town from the gate.
Yes. The Madan Puraskar Pustakalaya library and Rato Bangala School are attached to Yala Maya Kendra.
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