Attraction
Kathmandu Durbar Square
The old royal heart of Kathmandu, where the Hanuman Dhoka palace, the Kumari's residence and Malla-era temples surround a UNESCO-listed square.
An ancient hilltop stupa west of central Kathmandu, painted with the eyes of the Buddha and known as the Monkey Temple for the troops living around it.
Good to know
Swayambhunath stands on a small hill about 3 km west of central Kathmandu and is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist sites in Nepal. Its name means self-existent or self-arising, after the legend in the Swayambhu Purana that the valley was once a lake in which a lotus bloomed and gave off light, until the bodhisattva Manjushri cut through the hills with his sword and drained the water. The Nepal Tourism Board dates the stupa to around 460 AD and King Manadeva, and a damaged inscription records rebuilding in the 7th century. It was inscribed with the rest of the Kathmandu Valley as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.
The stupa itself is a whitewashed dome topped by a gilded cube painted with the eyes of the Buddha looking in four directions, then thirteen gold-plated rings that represent the stages towards nirvana. Five meditating Buddhas sit around the base. At the top of the main stairway is a huge gilded vajra, or thunderbolt, and around the platform are shikhara temples, chaityas, shrines and a gompa. The temple of Harati, the goddess who protects children, is popular with families, and there is a shrine to Manjushri or Saraswati behind the hilltop. The stupa was re-gilded with around 20 kg of gold in a renovation completed in 2010.
The site is shared by Buddhists and Hindus, and devotees circle the stupa throughout the day, turning the prayer wheels that run around the base of the hill. The resident monkeys explain the nickname Monkey Temple, used since the 1970s; keep food and loose items out of reach.
There are two ways up. The steep stone stairway on the eastern side, built in the 17th century under Pratap Malla, leads straight to the main platform and is a real climb. A road also circles the hill to the south-west entrance, leaving only a short walk to the top. Late afternoon and sunset bring good light across the valley, and the biggest crowds come for Buddha's birthday, usually in May.
Swayambhunath works well as a half-day trip from central Kathmandu. On the western boundary, beside the Ring Road, stands the largest image of Sakyamuni Buddha in Nepal, and the Dewa Dharma Monastery with its bronze Buddha and Tibetan paintings is also part of the complex.
On a hillock about 3 km west of central Kathmandu, overlooking the valley.
Families of monkeys live on the hill and around the temples, and the nickname has been in use since the 1970s.
The Nepal Tourism Board dates it to around 460 AD and King Manadeva, and an inscription records rebuilding in 640 AD.
No. The steep eastern stairway is the classic approach, but a road goes almost to the top on the south-west side.
Yes. It is part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site, inscribed in 1979.
On Buddha's birthday, usually in May, when large crowds of pilgrims gather.
Yes. The hilltop looks over most of the valley and is popular at sunset.
Yes. Hindu temples and deities sit within the complex and both communities worship there.
Bar
A speakeasy-style cocktail bar in Tripureshwor and the first Nepali bar on Asia's 50 Best Bars list, known for drinks built on local fruit, spices and…
Restaurant
The Dwarika's Nepali fine-dining room, serving a seasonal multi-course tasting menu that travels across the country's regions with produce from the hotel's own farms.
Café
A long-running Thamel bakery with a garden courtyard, known for fresh brown bread, croissants and its yak cheese sandwich, served to trekkers since the early 1980s.
Tour operator
A Kathmandu Valley tour company founded in 2002 to link tourism with social good, running market walks, cooking classes and a Swayambhu sunset walk.