Cao Lau Thanh

Cao lau is the dish most closely associated with Hoi An, and Cao Lau Thanh is a simple, long-running shop that serves nothing else. Vietnam Airlines' travel guide describes it as a restaurant with around 30 years of history, and it is at 26 Thai Phien Street, a short walk from the old town.

Cao lau is unusual among Vietnamese noodle dishes. According to the Da Nang tourism board, the rice is soaked in lye water made from the ashes of trees on the Cham Islands, which gives the noodles a light yellow tint, and the dough is kneaded with water from the old Ba Le well, which is said to give them their elasticity. The dough is rolled, steamed and cut into thick strands, so the noodles are chewier than pho. The dish has no broth: instead, two or three spoonfuls of sauce are added to a bowl of noodles topped with char siu-style pork, herbs and crisp pieces of fried noodle.

At Cao Lau Thanh the bowl comes with char siu pork, herbs, bean sprouts and crackers. The setting is basic, with metal tables and stools in a garage-style space, and the shop serves mainly breakfast and lunch. Guides note that it opens early and can run out by the afternoon, and one recent guide mentioned the distinctive taste of fish mint among the herbs, which not everyone enjoys.

To avoid the busiest periods, Vietnam Airlines' guide suggests coming before 08:00 or after 15:00. Prices are very low, so this is a good place for budget travellers and anyone who wants to try the dish in a local setting rather than in a tourist restaurant.

Cao lau dates back to the 17th century, when the Nguyen lords allowed foreign trade at Hoi An's port and Chinese and Japanese merchants came to trade and settle. It was once a special dish that people from the surrounding countryside longed to taste in Hoi An, and today it is served everywhere from upmarket restaurants to street stalls.

Combine a bowl here with a morning in the old town, or compare it with the cao lau at a sit-down restaurant such as Morning Glory. Add a little fish sauce or soy sauce to taste, and mix the herbs through the noodles before you eat.