Banh Mi Phuong

Banh Mi Phuong is the sandwich shop that put Hoi An's banh mi on the world map. It is run by Madam Phuong, whose sandwiches are known across central Vietnam, and it became famous internationally after Anthony Bourdain featured it on his television series No Reservations and described his sandwich as a symphony.

The shop is at 2B Phan Chau Trinh Street, within walking distance of the main heritage sites. It is a working sandwich counter rather than a restaurant, and the menu revolves around variations of banh mi, the Vietnamese baguette filled with meats, pate, pickles and herbs.

The classic order is the roast pork with pate, and a 2018 food guide described a version with pork, ham and pate, pickled papaya, local cheese, coriander, cucumber and mint. The sauce is the shop's own secret recipe, and a recent food guide singled out the bread as among the best the writer had tasted in Vietnam.

Expect queues. The shop's fame means there is often a line, but an assembly-line system keeps it moving quickly, and an earlier guide suggested visiting after 13:00 to avoid the lunchtime rush. Taking your sandwich away is the easiest option when the shop is busy.

Prices are low, so this is an inexpensive meal, ideal for budget travellers, families with children and anyone who wants a quick, filling breakfast or lunch between heritage visits. It is open from early morning until the evening, according to recent guides, so you can fit it in at almost any time. Phan Chau Trinh Street becomes a pedestrian zone in the evening, from 17:30 to 21:30 in summer and to 21:00 in winter, so an evening visit is easiest on foot.

To compare styles, try a sandwich at Madam Khanh, the self-styled Banh Mi Queen, at 115 Tran Cao Van Street, on another day; one recent food guide compared the two and gave Madam Khanh a slight edge. Com Ga Ba Buoi, the well-known chicken rice shop at 22 Phan Chau Trinh, is on the same street, so you can plan a whole morning of Hoi An street food around this corner of town.