Rottnest Island (Wadjemup)

Rottnest Island lies about 18 kilometres west of Fremantle and covers around 19 square kilometres. Its Noongar name, Wadjemup, is usually translated as the place across the water where the spirits are. The island is one of the few places in the world where the quokka, a small native marsupial, lives in the wild, and most visitors come for a mix of wildlife, beaches and cycling on roads with no private cars.

The island has a difficult history that is worth understanding before you go. Between 1838 and 1931 it was used as a prison and forced labour camp for more than 3,600 Aboriginal people, at least 373 of whom died and were buried in unmarked graves. Today the island is a protected reserve and a popular holiday destination, and that history is part of its story.

Getting there is straightforward. Ferries run from Barrack Street Jetty in Perth city, which takes up to 90 minutes, from B Shed at Victoria Quay in Fremantle in about 25 minutes, and from Hillarys Boat Harbour in about 45 minutes. The island admission fee is added to your ferry fare when you book, so there is nothing extra to pay on arrival. Three operators run the crossings, so compare schedules if you are tied to a particular time.

Once on the island, cycling is the main way to get around, and the hire company Pedal and Flipper has well over a thousand bikes available; there is also a bus service. Sheltered bays such as Geordie Bay and Longreach Bay suit swimming, protected lagoons, reefs and shipwreck sites offer snorkelling and diving, and Strickland Bay draws surfers. At Cathedral Rocks a viewing platform looks over a colony of New Zealand fur seals, and Wadjemup Lighthouse, built in 1896 at the island's highest point, rises about 38 metres. Other options include fishing, golf, Segway tours and scenic flights.

A day trip covers the main sights if you start early, but staying overnight lets you see the island once the day visitors have gone. Accommodation ranges from the Caroline Thomson cabins and camping ground to Samphire Rottnest, an 80-room hotel on Thomson Bay. Families, couples and active travellers all do well here. Bring sun protection and water for cycling, and keep a respectful distance from the quokkas.