Bar La Ópera

Bar La Ópera is one of the most storied drinking rooms in the historic centre. Its history goes back to 1876, when two French sisters named Boulangeot opened a pastry shop on the corner of San Juan de Letrán and Avenida Juárez, the site now occupied by the Torre Latinoamericana. In 1895 it moved to the corner of 5 de Mayo and Filomeno Mata and became a bar for high society. After the Revolution it turned into a popular cantina with drinking and gambling, before returning to its role as a meeting place for the elite.

The guest list over the years reads like a history of modern Mexico. El Financiero lists Porfirio Díaz and his wife Carmelita Romero Rubio, José Yves Limantour, the revolutionaries Emiliano Zapata and Francisco Villa, presidents including Miguel Alemán and Adolfo López Mateos, and writers and artists such as Carlos Monsiváis, José Luis Cuevas and Carlos Fuentes. The booths and small cabins allowed for private conversation, and they are still part of the room today.

The most famous detail is in the ceiling: a hole said to have been left by a bullet fired by Pancho Villa. The staff tell different versions of the story. The manager says Villa fired because no one was paying him attention, while another employee says he did it to intimidate a young woman. Either way, it is the detail that has made the bar famous.

The menu is mainly Spanish, with Mexican touches and seafood. Dishes highlighted by El Financiero include snails in chipotle sauce, octopus Galician style and tongue Veracruz style, alongside paella and chiles en nogada, with wine, beer and cocktails to drink. The average spend is around 540 pesos per person. According to the hours El Financiero reports, it opens from 13:00 to 23:00 from Monday to Saturday and closes at 18:00 on Sundays, so it is better for lunch or an early evening drink than a late night.

It suits history lovers, couples and small groups who want a drink in a setting full of stories. The bar is on Avenida 5 de Mayo in the historic centre, on the same street as Dulcería de Celaya, so it is an easy stop during a day of sightseeing.