Sarvi

Sarvi is a simple, unpretentious restaurant on a corner of Dimtimkar Road in Nagpada that has been feeding the neighbourhood for more than 90 years. Nagpada is an older neighbourhood of South Mumbai, and Sarvi feels like part of its fabric rather than a destination built for visitors. Many people first come because a regular brings them, and the place has kept a loyal following over the generations.

The thing to order is the kebab platter. The restaurant is known for its Irani kainchi seekh kebabs, long kebabs of spiced minced meat that are grilled over coal in the large window at the front and pulled off double skewers to order. They come with puffy tandoori rotis, raw onion rings, lemon wedges, mint and a green chilli chutney that is very hot, so try a little first. The Infatuation has called them the best seekh kebabs in the city.

Sarvi is also a breakfast stop. In the morning it serves green kheema, a rustic minced meat dish flavoured with dill leaves, along with variations such as kheema ghotala and kheema half fry. The menu runs to nearly 100 items, but most people stick to the kebabs or the kheema.

This is a place for adventurous eaters on a budget, late-night groups and anyone looking for halal food with a long history. It is basic and can be crowded, and it is not the place for a quiet or formal meal, but it is very good value. Takeaway is a big part of the business, so you can collect kebabs and eat elsewhere if you prefer. Allow 45 minutes to an hour for a sit-down meal. Lemon, onion and mint on the platter help to balance the richness of the kebabs. The menu is built around meat, so it is not the best choice for vegetarians.

Most visitors arrive by taxi, as Nagpada is not on the usual tourist routes. Sarvi works well combined with a visit to Chor Bazaar or the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum in Byculla, both a short drive away, and it is a good stop for a late meal after an evening elsewhere in South Mumbai.