Kam Wah Cafe

Kam Wah Cafe is a well-known cha chaan teng on Bute Street in Prince Edward, on the edge of Mong Kok in Kowloon. It is popular with local residents and is best known for one of Hong Kong's favourite snacks: the pineapple bun.

Kam Wah's version is the bo lo yau, a warm pineapple bun split open and filled with a thick slab of cold butter. The contrast between the hot, sweet bun and the melting butter is the whole point, and it pairs perfectly with a Hong Kong milk tea. Hong Kong-style French toast is the other dish to try if you are hungry.

The pineapple buns draw long queues throughout the day, so expect a wait at busy times. You can eat in the café or take buns away if the tables are full. Prices are low, and cash is the safest way to pay at a traditional café like this, so carry small notes.

The café suits anyone who wants to try a classic Hong Kong snack in a setting used by local people rather than mainly by visitors. It is a good stop on a day exploring Mong Kok, and a quick visit takes 20 to 30 minutes. Mornings and mid-afternoons are good times to go, and it is worth having an idea of your order before you reach the counter.

Neighbourhood cafés like this are where many Hong Kong residents start the day, so going early shows you the café at its most local. Time Out Hong Kong describes it as a famous cha chaan teng whose pineapple buns draw queues throughout the day, and it is a good way to see a neighbourhood café at work. Sit in if there is space, as watching the regulars order is part of the fun, and keep your visit short at peak times so others can take your table.

Prince Edward is well connected by MTR. From here you can continue south through Mong Kok towards Yau Ma Tei, where Mido Cafe and Temple Street Night Market are further down the same side of Kowloon. Australia Dairy Company in Jordan is another classic cha chaan teng to compare on a Kowloon café crawl.