Jade Emperor Pagoda

The Jade Emperor Pagoda is one of the most atmospheric places of worship in Ho Chi Minh City. Completed in 1909 by Liu Daoyuan, a Cantonese merchant who had settled in the city, it is dedicated to the Jade Emperor, the supreme deity of Taoism, and its main hall is known in Vietnamese as Ngoc Hoang Dien. The temple brings together Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian traditions, and it remains an active place of worship rather than a museum.

Inside, the halls are lined with fierce statues of gods and guardians, some holding swords. The Jade Emperor himself, with his long moustache, looks out through the incense smoke from the main hall, flanked by his guardians. Look out for the two red horse statues with bells around their necks, which act as messengers to the gods, and the Hall of the Ten Hells, where dark carved panels show the punishments that await the wicked. A small room near the entrance holds a shrine to Kim Hoa, the goddess of fertility, surrounded by statues of women, and many visitors come to pray for children. Near the entrance, a pond crowded with turtles gives the temple another of its nicknames.

A counter by the entrance sells incense and candles, and visitors light the incense, pray and bow before placing the sticks in large brass pots at the different altars. The temple is known by several names, including Chua Ngoc Hoang and Phuoc Hai Temple, which is worth knowing when giving directions to a driver.

The pagoda drew international attention on 22 May 2016, when the United States president Barack Obama visited during his state trip to Vietnam. Since then it has become a fixture on city tours, but it is still very much a local temple, so it is best visited quietly. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, speak softly and ask before photographing worshippers. Avoid stepping in front of people who are praying.

Entry is free, with donation boxes inside, and a visit takes between 30 minutes and an hour. Mornings tend to be calmer, and the halls are dim, so give your eyes a moment to adjust. Stairs lead up to a small rooftop terrace with ceramic tiles and dragon carvings.

The pagoda is in Da Kao, north of central District 1, a short taxi or ride-hailing trip from Notre-Dame Cathedral. The Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens is nearby, so it is easy to combine the two on a half-day loop away from the busiest downtown streets.