El Zaeem

For a quick, cheap and filling taste of everyday Egyptian food, a bowl of koshari is hard to beat, and El Zaeem on Youssef Hassan Street in central Luxor is a popular place to try it. It is a local restaurant rather than a tourist venue, and you will often find it busy with Luxor residents at lunchtime and in the evening.

Koshari is Egypt's national comfort food: a layered bowl of rice, small pasta and brown lentils, topped with chickpeas, a spiced tomato sauce and crispy fried onions. At a koshari shop you can usually add garlic and vinegar dressing or chilli sauce to taste, so try a little first before adding more. The result is vegetarian, very filling and inexpensive, which makes it ideal for budget travellers and for anyone who wants an authentic local meal.

The setting is simple and functional, with quick service, and the menu is short, focused on koshari in different sizes. Ordering is straightforward even without Arabic: point to the size you want. Takeaway is common if you would rather eat back at your hotel or on the Corniche.

El Zaeem suits solo travellers, backpackers, vegetarians and curious eaters. It is not a place for a long, leisurely dinner, but it is a good way to see a slice of local life and to eat well for very little money. Families with children who like pasta often enjoy koshari too, as long as the chilli is added with care.

The restaurant is in the town centre, within walking distance of Luxor Temple and the souq, and a short taxi ride from the hotels along the river. Go at off-peak times if you want a table without waiting. As with most small local restaurants, opening hours are not published online, so ask your hotel for directions and current times.

Koshari is eaten all over Egypt, and every shop has its own balance of sauce, spice and onions, so it is worth comparing a few if you are travelling on to Cairo or Aswan. Tipping is not expected at the counter in a simple local restaurant, but rounding up is appreciated.