Brettos

Brettos has been part of Plaka since 1909, and it is one of the most photographed bars in Athens. The reason is the back wall, which is stacked to the ceiling with colourful, backlit bottles, glowing in every shade from amber to green. It works as a neighbourhood bar, a distillery and a wine bar, and the official city guide describes it as a well-known landmark of the district. A recent newspaper feature called it a landmark of Athens nightlife.

What sets Brettos apart is that it makes its own traditional Greek spirits and liqueurs. These include ouzo in several varieties, tsipouro, brandy and a honey and cinnamon spirit in the style of rakomelo, as well as a long list of liqueurs. Flavours mentioned by the bar and the press include cherry, lemon, mastiha, bergamot, chestnut, kumquat and passion fruit. Sitting at one of the wooden barrels and working through a few small glasses is the classic way to spend an evening here.

If you prefer, order a glass of Greek wine, or tell the bartenders whether you like sweet or sour drinks and your favourite spirit, and they will make a cocktail to suit. There is also an extensive alcohol-free menu, which is unusual for a bar of this kind and makes it a good choice for mixed groups. The shop sells the house spirits along with Greek wines, olive oil, honey, olives, spices and sweets, so it is a handy place to pick up gifts.

Brettos suits couples, groups of friends and anyone curious about traditional Greek spirits. It is relaxed and cosy rather than loud, and prices are moderate. Opening hours are not published on the official website, so check before a special trip, and arrive early on summer evenings, when Plaka is at its busiest.

Kydathinaion Street runs through the heart of Plaka, and Brettos is a short walk from both Syntagma and Akropoli metro stations. Combine an aperitif here with dinner in Plaka, or stop in after an evening stroll around the foot of the Acropolis. Visitors have long described it as colourful and cosy, and a short visit to taste two or three of the house liqueurs takes well under an hour.