Trattoria Da Romano

Trattoria Da Romano is the best-known restaurant on Burano and a destination in its own right for anyone visiting the northern lagoon. It has been run by the Barbaro family for four generations. Its origins go back to the late nineteenth century, when it was a small shop serving family-style meals to fishermen and islanders. Around 1920 Romano took over from his father and, with his wife, turned it into a trattoria, and in 1947 it moved into its present building on the island's main street, a former lace-making workshop.

The dish that made Da Romano famous is risotto di gò, a risotto made with goby, a small lagoon fish that is now hard to find. The broth gives the rice a deep, delicate seafood flavour, and many visitors come specifically to try it. The rest of the menu is a tour of lagoon cooking: antipasti of cuttlefish and lagoon shrimp, sardines and scampi in saor, fried fish from the day's catch and whole fish such as sea bass, turbot and sea bream grilled over wood.

The atmosphere is that of a long-established family trattoria. According to its website, the trattoria serves from 12:00 to 15:00 every day except Tuesday, so plan your Burano trip around lunch. Booking is advisable, especially at weekends and in summer, when the island is busy with day-trippers. Ask whether the risotto is available when you book, as it depends on the catch.

Da Romano suits couples, families and groups who want a traditional seafood lunch as the centrepiece of a day in the lagoon. Prices are mid to high, reflecting the quality of the fish, and it is worth taking your time over the meal. Allow at least ninety minutes. Remember to check the return vaporetto times before you sit down, as services back to Fondamente Nove are less frequent than those within the centre, and a relaxed lunch can easily run into the afternoon. Combining the meal with a morning on Murano or Torcello makes for a full and satisfying day in the lagoon.

The trattoria is on Via Baldassarre Galuppi, Burano's main street, a few minutes' walk from the vaporetto stop. Line 12 runs from Fondamente Nove via Murano. After lunch, walk the canals to see the island's painted houses, visit the Lace Museum, or cross the footbridge to Mazzorbo.