Restaurant
Glam Enrico Bartolini
Two-Michelin-star restaurant in Palazzo Venart on the Grand Canal, where chef Donato Ascani cooks lagoon produce and grilled dishes for Enrico Bartolini's group.
A long-established San Polo trattoria for traditional Venetian seafood, from sarde in saor and baccalà mantecato to fried moeche crabs in season.
Good to know
Antiche Carampane is a historic trattoria in a quiet corner of San Polo, and it is one of the places Venetians recommend when visitors ask where to eat good, traditional seafood. It is tucked away on Rio Terà delle Carampane, a lane that is easy to miss, which helps keep out passing trade. The Michelin Guide lists it and describes it as a place people happily return to.
The menu is built around local fish and seafood cooked with fidelity to Venetian tradition. Starters include sarde in saor, sardines marinated with onions, vinegar, pine nuts and raisins, and baccalà mantecato, creamed salt cod usually served on polenta or bread. In spring and autumn the kitchen fries moeche, the tiny soft-shell crabs of the lagoon, which are only available for short periods of the year. Beyond the printed menu, staff describe the day's specials at the table, so ask what has come in from the market. The wine list covers both Italian and French labels.
The dining rooms are traditionally Venetian in decor, and there is also a terrace. Opening hours are Tuesday to Saturday, 12:30 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 22:00, with the restaurant closed on Sundays and Mondays. The trattoria manages its own bookings, so contact it directly by phone rather than through booking apps, and reserve well ahead for dinner, particularly in spring and autumn. Credit cards are accepted. If you want to try the moeche, plan your trip for spring or autumn, and ask when booking whether they are on that week, since the season is short and depends on the lagoon.
Antiche Carampane suits couples, small groups and anyone wanting a classic Venetian seafood meal in a setting that feels more local than the restaurants around St Mark's. Prices are mid to high, reflecting the quality of the fish. Families are welcome, though the menu is overwhelmingly seafood, so children who do not eat fish may have limited choice. Allow around two hours for dinner.
The nearest vaporetto stops are San Silvestro and Rialto Mercato on Line 1, each a short walk away through the lanes of San Polo. The Rialto Market and the Rialto Bridge are about five to ten minutes on foot, and Campo San Polo, one of the largest squares in the city, is close by.
Tuesday to Saturday, 12:30 to 14:30 and 19:30 to 22:00. It is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Yes. The restaurant manages its own bookings, so call it directly, well ahead for dinner.
Sarde in saor, baccalà mantecato and, in spring and autumn, fried moeche, plus whatever specials are announced at the table.
Yes. The menu is focused on Venetian fish and seafood.
Yes, credit cards are accepted.
Yes, the restaurant has a terrace.
Take vaporetto Line 1 to San Silvestro or Rialto Mercato and walk a few minutes into San Polo.
Café
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Bar
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Hotel
A grand hotel on the Riva degli Schiavoni, a few steps from the Doge's Palace, set in the Gothic Palazzo Dandolo and welcoming guests since 1822.
Thing to do
Venice's historic food market beside the Rialto Bridge, with a fish market under the Pescheria loggia and fruit and vegetable stalls in the surrounding squares.