Thing to do
Rialto Market
Venice's historic food market beside the Rialto Bridge, with a fish market under the Pescheria loggia and fruit and vegetable stalls in the surrounding squares.
The museum of Venetian glass on the island of Murano, open since 1861, tracing the history of glassmaking from ancient blown vessels to Murano murrine.
Good to know
A trip to Murano, the island of glassmakers just north of Venice, makes most sense with a visit to its Glass Museum, the Museo del Vetro. It has been open since 1861 in a building that was once the residence of the bishops of Torcello, beside a canal in the centre of the island, and it is run by the city's civic museums foundation. The museum describes its holdings as the most extensive historical collection of Murano glass, and it gives context to the shops and furnaces you will pass on the way.
The displays begin long before Murano. An archaeological section shows cinerary urns and vessels in blown glass from a necropolis in northern Dalmatia, a reminder that the history of glass spans thousands of years. The main rooms then follow Venetian glassmaking through its golden age, with enamelled goblets, delicate filigree, mirrors and chandeliers. Another section explains mosaic glass and millefiori, or murrine, which nineteenth-century Murano glassmakers revived in response to a production crisis. Modern and contemporary pieces show how the craft continues to evolve.
The museum is open every day. From April to October it opens 10:00 to 18:00, and from November to March 10:00 to 17:00, with last admission an hour before closing. Tickets can be bought online through the MUVE ticketing site. Allow an hour to ninety minutes. It suits design lovers, families with older children and anyone planning to buy glass, as it helps you understand techniques and recognise quality.
Murano itself is worth a few hours. Many furnaces offer demonstrations, and the island has its own canals, churches and a quieter pace than central Venice. When buying glass, look for workshops that make their pieces on the island, and ask about shipping for larger items. Glass is fragile and often expensive, so it is worth comparing a few workshops before you buy, and keeping receipts for anything you plan to ship home.
Vaporetti from Fondamente Nove reach Murano in a few minutes, and Line 12 continues to Burano, so the two islands are easy to combine in a day. Several lines also run from Piazzale Roma and the station. Once on the island, the museum is a short walk along the canal from the main vaporetto stops.
The museum is open every day: 10:00 to 18:00 from April to October and 10:00 to 17:00 from November to March, with last admission an hour before closing.
Take a vaporetto from Fondamente Nove, a few minutes' ride; services also run from Piazzale Roma and the station.
An hour to ninety minutes for the museum, and a few hours if you also explore the island.
Yes, through the MUVE online ticketing site.
Yes, especially older children who are interested in how glass is made.
Yes. Vaporetto Line 12 links Fondamente Nove, Murano and Burano, so both fit into a day.
Call the museum offices on +39 041 739586 or email [email protected].
Café
Venice's historic coffee house on Piazza San Marco, serving since 1720, with ornate rooms, tables on the square and a programme of live music.
Restaurant
Two-Michelin-star restaurant in Palazzo Venart on the Grand Canal, where chef Donato Ascani cooks lagoon produce and grilled dishes for Enrico Bartolini's group.
Bar
Giuseppe Cipriani's bar near the San Marco waterfront, opened in 1931, where the Bellini and carpaccio were created, and a declared Italian national landmark.
Hotel
A grand hotel on the Riva degli Schiavoni, a few steps from the Doge's Palace, set in the Gothic Palazzo Dandolo and welcoming guests since 1822.