Thing to do
Rialto Market
Venice's historic food market beside the Rialto Bridge, with a fish market under the Pescheria loggia and fruit and vegetable stalls in the surrounding squares.
A fishing island in the northern lagoon, about 7 km from Venice, known for its brightly painted houses, its lace-making tradition and the leaning bell tower of San Martino.
Good to know
Burano is a small island in the northern Venetian lagoon, about 7 kilometres from the city centre, and it makes one of the most enjoyable half-day trips from Venice. It is home to roughly 2,800 people and is best known for two things: its brightly painted houses, and its long tradition of lace-making.
The colours are not accidental. Residents who want to repaint must request permission, and the local authorities specify which colours are allowed, so the canals are lined with houses in strong pinks, blues, greens and yellows. Walking the fondamente along the canals is the main pleasure of a visit, and the side streets away from the main route are much quieter. The church of San Martino, with its markedly leaning bell tower, stands on the main square.
Lace-making on Burano dates back to the sixteenth century, when the craft is said to have arrived from Venetian-ruled Cyprus. It declined in the eighteenth century and revived after a lace-making school opened in 1872. Today few people make lace entirely by hand, as it is so time-consuming, and much of what is sold in the shops is machine-made. The Lace Museum, run by the city's civic museums foundation, explains the history and techniques and is the best place to see genuine pieces.
Burano is also known for seafood. Restaurants around the island serve lagoon fish, and the risotto made with goby, a small lagoon fish, is a local speciality. Booking lunch is sensible on fine weekends, when day-trippers fill the waterfront tables. Buranelli biscuits, ring- or S-shaped butter biscuits, are sold in the island's bakeries.
Vaporetto Line 12 runs from Fondamente Nove via Murano to Burano and on to Treporti and Punta Sabbioni; the journey from Fondamente Nove takes around 40 minutes. A footbridge links Burano with the neighbouring island of Mazzorbo, which has vineyards and a quieter waterfront, and Torcello is a short boat hop away. Allow at least three hours, or a full day if you combine it with Murano and Torcello. Burano suits photographers, families and couples. It is busiest from late morning to mid-afternoon, so an early or late visit is calmer, and the evening light on the houses is especially attractive.
Take vaporetto Line 12 from Fondamente Nove, which also calls at Murano. The trip takes around 40 minutes.
It is a long tradition, and residents must ask permission to repaint; the authorities specify which colours may be used.
Not always. Handmade lace is very time-consuming, and much of what is sold is machine-made. The Lace Museum is the best place to see genuine work.
At least three hours, or a full day if you add Murano and Torcello.
Lagoon seafood, especially risotto made with goby, and the island's buttery Buranelli biscuits.
It is the bell tower of the church of San Martino, on the island's main square.
Early morning or late afternoon, when there are fewer day-trippers and the light on the houses is softer.
Yes. A footbridge links Burano with Mazzorbo.
Café
Venice's historic coffee house on Piazza San Marco, serving since 1720, with ornate rooms, tables on the square and a programme of live music.
Restaurant
Two-Michelin-star restaurant in Palazzo Venart on the Grand Canal, where chef Donato Ascani cooks lagoon produce and grilled dishes for Enrico Bartolini's group.
Bar
Giuseppe Cipriani's bar near the San Marco waterfront, opened in 1931, where the Bellini and carpaccio were created, and a declared Italian national landmark.
Hotel
A grand hotel on the Riva degli Schiavoni, a few steps from the Doge's Palace, set in the Gothic Palazzo Dandolo and welcoming guests since 1822.