Thing to do
Barrio de Santa Cruz
Seville's former Jewish quarter, a maze of narrow lanes, whitewashed houses, orange trees and small squares beside the Alcázar walls, best explored slowly on foot.
Mercado de Triana
Triana's neighbourhood food market at the end of the Isabel II bridge, with around a hundred stalls of produce, fish and ham plus tapas bars and a cooking school.
At a glance
- Type
- Food market
- Area
- Triana, Seville, Spain
- Official site
- mercadodetrianasevilla.com
Good to know
- Tapas bars
- Cooking school
- Archaeological remains nearby
Why we recommend it
The Mercado de Triana stands at the Triana end of the Isabel II bridge, where the neighbourhood meets the river, and it is one of the best places in Seville to see how locals shop and eat. A market has stood on this spot since 1823, when the city built one on the ruins of the Castillo de San Jorge, the medieval castle that later served as the seat of the Inquisition in Seville. The old market building was eventually replaced, and the present one opened in 2001, with tiled panels on the outside that recall Triana's long tradition of ceramics.
Inside are around a hundred stalls under one roof. In the morning it is a working market, with butchers, fishmongers selling prawns and fish from the Andalusian coast, greengrocers, bakers, ham and cheese counters, olive and pickle stalls and spice sellers. Increasingly, though, it is also a place to eat, with small bars and counters serving tapas, seafood, sushi, juices and drinks. A good approach is to walk around first, then choose a counter for a vermouth or a glass of sherry with a plate of whatever looks freshest. There is also a cooking school inside the market that runs classes for visitors, and a small theatre space.
Beneath and beside the market are the excavated remains of the Castillo de San Jorge, which can be visited separately in a small interpretation centre about the castle and the Inquisition. Combined with the market, it makes an interesting hour for anyone curious about the darker side of the city's history.
Mornings are best for the full market atmosphere; many produce stalls close by early afternoon, while the bars stay open later. Saturday is busy with local shoppers. Prices are reasonable, and it is a good place to pick up picnic supplies or edible souvenirs such as olive oil, spices and ham. The building is on one level and easy to get around.
After the market, walk along Calle San Jacinto and Calle Pureza, Triana's main streets, or along Calle Betis, which follows the river and has views across to the Torre del Oro and the Maestranza. Triana is also known for its ceramics workshops and shops around Calle Callao and Calle Antillano Campos, and for its flamenco bars. The centre is a five minute walk back across the bridge.
Mercado de Triana FAQs
Where is the Mercado de Triana?
At the Plaza del Altozano, at the Triana end of the Isabel II (Triana) bridge.
When is the best time to visit?
In the morning, when the produce stalls are all open; the bars inside stay open later.
Can you eat at the market?
Yes. There are several tapas bars and food counters serving seafood, ham, sushi and drinks.
What was on the site before?
The Castillo de San Jorge, a medieval castle later used by the Inquisition. Its remains can be visited next to the market.
How many stalls are there?
Around a hundred.
When was the current building opened?
The present market building opened in 2001, replacing an earlier market dating from 1823.
Is there a cooking class in the market?
Yes. A cooking school operates inside the market and runs classes for visitors.
What is nearby?
Calle Betis along the river, Calle San Jacinto and Calle Pureza, and Triana's ceramics shops.