Manteigaria Bolhão

The pastel de nata, Portugal's custard tart, is on sale in almost every café in Porto, but few places make it with the focus of Manteigaria. The business began in Lisbon, in a shop near Largo de Camões on the border between the Bairro Alto and Chiado, in the former headquarters of a cooperative that supplied butter to the city. The name, which means dairy or butter shop, was kept because butter is essential to the pastry. Its tarts became so popular that it opened in Porto in 2017.

There are now several shops in Porto, at Bolhão, Clérigos, Santa Catarina and Largo de São Domingos, and the branch on Rua de Alexandre Braga, beside the Mercado do Bolhão, is among the busiest. The format is simple: the bakery makes one thing and makes it constantly. Through the glass you can watch the pastry being rolled, pressed into tins, filled and baked, and when a fresh batch comes out a bell rings to let passers-by know.

The tarts are best eaten warm, within minutes of leaving the oven, when the pastry is crisp and flaky and the custard just set and lightly caramelised on top. Cinnamon and icing sugar are on hand for those who want them. A coffee alongside makes a classic Portuguese breakfast or afternoon break. Most customers eat at the counter or take a box away, as there is limited space to sit.

Prices are low and the queue moves quickly, even when it stretches out of the door. Boxes of six are popular for sharing or as a gift, though the tarts are at their best on the day they are made. The shop opens from early morning into the evening; the official site lists hours of 08:00 to 21:00, but check before a late visit. It suits everyone, from families with children to solo travellers grabbing a quick snack between sights.

The shop sits on the eastern side of the Bolhão market, a short walk from Bolhão metro station and Rua de Santa Catarina. The Confeitaria do Bolhão and the Majestic Café are a few minutes away, so it is easy to compare Porto's pastry traditions in a single morning. The Clérigos branch is handy if you are sightseeing near the tower and Livraria Lello.