Chocolatería San Ginés

Chocolatería San Ginés is the classic place in Madrid for chocolate con churros, and for many visitors it is as much a part of the city as the Plaza Mayor. It opened in 1894 in a building dating from 1890, in a narrow passage beside the church of San Ginés, just off Calle Arenal between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace. Over more than a century it has served late-night revellers, theatre audiences and families, and it has since opened branches in other countries, from Tokyo to Mexico City and Lisbon.

The order here is simple. The hot chocolate is thick, rich and made for dipping rather than sipping, and it comes with churros, the thin, ridged loops of fried dough, or porras, their thicker, fluffier cousins. Most people share a plate of one or the other between two. The café also serves coffee, other drinks and a selection of cakes, and across the passage its sister shop sells chocolate truffles, ice cream and other treats to take away.

It is busy at almost any hour, and queues are common in the afternoon and at weekends, but service is quick and tables turn over fast. The famous tradition is to come late at night or in the small hours after a night out, and the café is known for its very long opening hours; check the website for current times, as they can vary.

San Ginés suits everyone, from families with children to couples and groups of friends, and it is one of the cheapest classic experiences in central Madrid. Reservations are not taken, except for large groups booking a full room on weekdays, and not at all at weekends, on public holidays or over the Christmas season. Arrive outside peak times, such as mid-morning on a weekday, for the shortest wait.

The Pasadizo de San Ginés runs between Calle Arenal and Calle Mayor. Sol and Ópera metro stations are both around five minutes away on foot, the Teatro Real is at the end of Calle Arenal, and the Plaza Mayor is a few minutes south, making this an easy stop at any point in a day of sightseeing.