Café
Chocolatería San Ginés
Madrid's most famous chocolatería, serving thick hot chocolate with churros and porras in a lane off Calle Arenal since 1894.
El Riojano
A pastry shop on Calle Mayor founded in 1855 by a baker to the royal household, with a preserved 19th-century interior and a tea room at the back.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic pastry shop and tea room
- Area
- Sol, Madrid, Spain
- Price
- $$ · Mid-range
- Opening
- Open daily · 09:00–21:00
- Official site
- pasteleriaelriojano.com
Good to know
- Tea room
- Seasonal sweets
- Home delivery in Madrid
- Open daily
Why we recommend it
El Riojano is one of the oldest and most beautiful pastry shops in Madrid. It was founded in 1855 by Dámaso de la Maza, a baker from La Rioja known as El Riojano, who worked for the Spanish royal household. The shop on Calle Mayor, a few steps from Puerta del Sol, was refurbished in 1892 and has kept much of its original decoration, with Cuban mahogany, Carrara marble and bronze fittings, so stepping inside feels like stepping back into the 19th century.
The shop follows the traditional Madrid calendar of sweets. At Christmas there are roscones de Reyes, turrones and marzipan figures, including the marzipan eels that are a Madrid speciality. In May, for the San Isidro festival, the counters fill with rosquillas, the ring-shaped biscuits known as listas and tontas, and other seasons bring their own specialities, such as buñuelos and huesos de santo in autumn. Through the year you can choose from more than twenty cakes, pastries, chocolates and bonbons.
At the back of the shop, a small, classic tea room offers a quiet place to sit with a coffee, hot chocolate or tea and a pastry, away from the crowds on Calle Mayor. It is a refined but unstuffy setting, suited to couples, older visitors and anyone who enjoys historic interiors. Families with children are welcome, and the window displays are a treat in themselves, especially around Christmas.
El Riojano is open every day from 9:00 to 21:00, which makes it easy to fit into a day in the centre. Seasonal specialities sell well, so if you want a particular sweet around a festival, go earlier in the day. The shop also takes online orders for collection and offers home delivery within the city of Madrid.
Calle Mayor runs west from Puerta del Sol towards the Royal Palace, and El Riojano is in the first stretch, almost on the square. Sol metro and Cercanías station is two minutes away. The Plaza Mayor, the Mercado de San Miguel and Chocolatería San Ginés are all within a few minutes' walk, making this part of the centre the best for a tour of Madrid's historic sweet shops.
El Riojano FAQs
When was El Riojano founded?
In 1855, by Dámaso de la Maza, a baker who worked for the royal household.
Is there somewhere to sit?
Yes, there is a small tea room at the back of the shop.
What are the opening hours?
Every day from 9:00 to 21:00.
What should I try?
Seasonal Madrid sweets such as roscón de Reyes at Christmas or San Isidro rosquillas in May.
Is the interior original?
The shop was refurbished in 1892 and keeps much of its decor, including mahogany, marble and bronze.
Does it deliver?
Yes, within the city of Madrid, and online orders can be collected in store.
Where is it?
At Calle Mayor 10, just off Puerta del Sol.
What is the nearest metro?
Sol, about two minutes' walk.